Trade fair Fashion Exposed is set to kick off from February 22-24, 2014 at the Melbourne Exhibition Centre. Here, ragtrader.com.au presents a series of exclusive interviews with keynote speakers from its business seminar line-up.
Artisan Culture: Julie Lantry, founder.
1. What are the benefits of linking fashion retailers/designers with artisans?
Firstly I think its important to mention there are many levels and types of traditional artistry. The advantages and disadvantages in linking retailers/designers can vary pending the sector and skill level. Over all, artisan work can offer designers a point of difference and a personal touch to their collections. While for artisans it can increase their revenue as well as helping to keep age-old traditions alive. In a time when consumers are starting to demand transparency and social responsibility, this can offer leverage for designers and retailers.
2. Top tips for retailers looking to build sustainable relationships with artisans?
Building relationships with artisans is more difficult than you would imagine, which is why I started Artisan Culture textile tours. Through our team based in India, you can tap into this creative network. Our ethical middle men can guide you through the processes, point you in the right direction for your business and help to build your network. However, if you are prefer to go it alone, I recommend you take time to build your new relationship and keep an open mind within the journey. When negotiating deals try to be transparent about your expectations, such as price, delivery and exclusivity.
3. Do artisan partnerships provide a competitive edge for retailers/designers?
Yes I believe it does, there are over 200 different types of textile techniques in India. Being inspired by these traditional concepts can inspire you to design unique original contemporary collections at a price your market can afford. For example, if your company engages in mass production, you could partner with a Non Government Organisation to produce a range of block prints for clothing or home wares. Together you could produce a collection that could be marketed in a way to give a competitive advantage, promoting corporate social responsibility and unique craft. At the luxury end of the market, you want to offer your consumers an exclusive quality product. Engaging with highly skilled artisans will give you the couture edge you need at a very competitive price. For example, working with a weaver from Varanasi, you could commission an original 100% silk brocade design that would be hand loomed in your colours for around $60/metre with very small minimums. At that price, why buy off the shelf and risk having the same fabric in the market place as your competitors.
4. What are the main challenges involved in maintaining sustainable relationships with artisans?
The main challenges involved, in my experience, have been quality, continuity, confidentiality and delivery blowouts. As a westerner, we expect a delivery date to be adhered to. However, in the west, we also don’t struggle with issues such as power cuts or monsoon floods, nor do we have so many religious festivals that cause major disruptions to the workroom. These are things we need to be aware of and keep an open mind to. One of the hardest things about maintaining a relationship with an artisan is gaining an understanding of the culture. Within Indian culture for example, it is rude to say “no” so when you ask “Is that delivery date OK” You may get an assuring shake of the head but in reality it’s a problem. There is also a strong culture of copying in India, there are different ways to address this issue, which we will discuss at the Fashion Exposed workshop.
5. Artisans pride themselves in the quality of their work but this often takes time – how can retailers and artisans decide on a deliver schedule that works both ways? What are the key questions/points which need to be discussed before embarking on a partnership?
As much as I like to keep a transparent relationship, pending the individual or organisation I am working with, I have been known to keep a little time up my sleeve to allow for any issues. This works especially well at the beginning of a relationship to avoid disappointment, to what could be a good long-term working relationship. Initially, explain the importance of on-time delivery and how honest communication is essential. Then ask questions such as, how long to they think production will take, is there anything that could affect the delivery, and what strategies do they have in place if things don’t go to plan. Once everything is discussed and resolved, have it written down and be in regular contact to check how the delivery is going.