Renowned UK buyer Erin Mullaney recently spoke at a L'Oreal Melbourne Fashion Festival seminar. She offers advice for designers looking to export to the market.
So - you may be able to win over a British buyer and lure her in at the beginning as an Australian brand but how do you maintain a relationship? How do you continue to build up the business and not just have one or two seasonal hits at a department store or a boutique in the UK?
In my experience, working with a lot of Australian brands in my history as a buyer, these are some of the things that are the barriers for Australian brands. That shouldn't discourage you, but you should be aware of them and try and correct them.
Obviously one of the biggest hurdles is that we're designing in opposite seasons. So when we're showing summer, you're showing winter and vice versa, which is a bit tricky.
Also because of customs, duty and importation, the pricing is higher. I cannot stress this enough: as a designer who is exporting, you really have to look at your pricing structure. It has to be the right price for the product that you're putting out there, for the quality of the brand and the image of the brand.
You shouldn't put the prices up by 20 to 30 per cent just because you're exporting. So really look at that pricing structure and make sure that it is intended for that UK or European buyer you are aiming for.
Also with your deliveries - are they coming on time? Always be the first on the shop floor. That's what I tell my designers: first in, first out. Can your deliveries get there on time to compete with the other European brands?
Sometimes you're seeing different trends here. The weather is fantastic so you're looking more at the maxi dresses, the flowing styles and so on; whereas in the last few years, we've been looking at bondage and lycra and bodycon. So you have to look at how you match up the trends.
Although I do have a great feeling that now is a great time for Australian designers to get their stuff out there more because the trends are definitely going your way.
It's very important to find the right rep, but there are some great agents who can represent you in Paris and London. It's just about getting out there and finding them. One of the case studies I have is of an Australian designer, who I worked with personally and has done well in the UK, is Josh Goot.
Josh actually did all the things I've pointed out, perfectly well. The other thing that he did well and that attracted me was his use of print, bright colours and combining them, and that was very cutting edge, I thought.
I met Josh about fives years ago while I was at Browns and we became retail partners – and he's probably one of the most famous Australian designers in England and an example of an Australian designer who got it right.
TIPS:
· Keep the opposite seasons in mind
· Look at your pricing structure
· Be consistent and fast on your delivery times. Always be the first on the shop floor.
· Look at the difference in trends
· Have a high quality and production
· Find a good agent/s to represent your brand in Europe
· Another important thing is to know your business DNA. This is very important if you want to differentiate yourself from other brands in the UK.
· Understand your competition
· Invest in good PR
· Find the right retail partner
· Overall – persist. It's really important to remember that things do not happen overnight so be patient!