The Textile, Clothing and Footwear Union of Australia (TCFUA) has facilitated an interview between Ragtrader and an industry outworker, as the battle between fashion designers and union officials reaches crescendo.
Ragtrader spoke with an outworker who creates apparel for designer label Morrison. She cannot be named for fear she may lose her job and had to converse with the help of a translator.
The outworker said she did not think Morrison was aware of exploitation in its production chain as she was given the work from a third party.
The full-time working mother supplies a company which Morrison outsources to, and claims she is paid ‘per piece’ as opposed to an hourly wage. After spending hours making a $699 jacket, she was allegedly paid just $20.
As is the case with most outworkers, she claimed she has no holiday allowance, superannuation or medical benefits and has no choice but to work to set targets, some of which come in at short notice and must be done immediately. She also reportedly pays for her own power, cotton, equipment and petrol used when dropping the goods off.
“It is usual for me to work through bank holidays such as Christmas.”
Morrison founder, Richard Poulson said the brand was unaware of any cases where its outworkers were not receiving a ‘fair and comparable salary’.
“We are presently working with Ethical Clothing Australia and the TCFUA to ensure our business is aligned with current national regulations.”
The TCFUA claimed this was not an isolated case and that supply chain management was an industry-wide problem. However, as the government brings in controversial legislation which will now further tighten outworker requirements, industry powerbrokers fear for the future of local production.
At a recent L’Oreal Melbourne Fashion Festival industry forum, acclaimed designer Kirrily Johnston described the issue as a “hornet’s nest”. She said while most brands supported ethical manufacturing, increased red tape and complex legislation meant more brands were being forced offshore.
Johnston’s comments are backed by global fashion data firm Editd, which conducted analysis of the local market during a business trip last month.
“Whilst the framework this provides for outworkers is beneficial, it comes at a time when the industry is struggling to grow its manufacture and imposing these restrictions will seriously hinder young businesses.”
For more on this hot button issue, pick up Ragtrader’s May edition.
Pippa Chambers and Assia Benmedjdoub