The birth of a fashion Queen

Queen Clothing is one of Fitzroy's longest reigning retailers, and thanks to a unique and edgy fashion offer, it won't be abdicating anytime soon, as Belinda Smart reports.

Nestled among the galleries and cafes of Melbourne's arty Smith Street precinct, Queen Clothing's retail outlet is well located to represent the quirky womenswear label of the same name, as well as a host of edgy Melbourne labels.
Queen designer and proprietor Christine Boyle's interest in fashion germinated in her visual arts training, and the label - established in 1999 - has evolved from wearable art made from recycled fabric and decorated with a variety of techniques including hand painting and printing.
"Today my clothing still incorporates many of those original techniques but has been honed to be more functional and accessible, while still maintaining its creative edge," Boyle confirms.
Catering for sizes 8 to 18, Queen attracts an "inner-city, sophisticated clientele, looking for fresh designs but also for garments that will last and are classic enough to endure seasons ahead," Boyle says.
"My clients are fashion-savvy; not fashion slaves."
Blending a strong sense of structure with a uniquely Melburnian quirkiness, the clothes themselves embody this ethos.
"I have a wrap skirt which has become a bit of a classic. Initially made from recycled vintage fabric, its numerous panels are now made from multi-coloured craft cottons. These colours are brought together by a strong black border surrounding the whole skirt. There is a large marsupial type pocket at the front of the skirt, [and the skirt] is totally reversible and forms a black skirt with a similar pocket when you turn it around. It comes in knee length and mid-length options. With its joined double layers, its A-line shape sits out in quite a kooky and "Japan-esque" way, which I love.
"A few of my pant styles have also become classics including the cut-out pant which is a well-fitted comfortable pant. The straight leg is a simple rectangle cut out of the bottom hem which is lined in red or another contrast colour, making it very striking."
Boyle sources staple fabrics from local Melbourne wholesalers - supplemented with more exotic silks or cottons gleaned from her annual Asian trips - and the label is made exclusively in Melbourne.
"I will endeavour to keep all my making here because I see the need for jobs here growing every day. We have plenty of skilled workers here."
Clearly support for the local economy is close to her heart, and it's not just manufacturers that have gained her support; Queen carries around 30 other local labels across the clothing, accessories and jewellery categories, around 40 per cent of them from emerging designers, to whom she acts as mentor.
The balance is comprised of well-known independent brands including Monkhouse, Sprinkle Magic, Maru, Fiber Red, Bul and Belsin.
This business model comprising a mix of her own and other designer's labels has grown organically, from modest beginnings in the late nineties, when she first spotted the untapped potential of Smith Street.
"Initially the shop was my studio, then I began to show some clothing in the window until people started knocking and I started opening. It is a very small shop, but I think I've managed to keep the merchandising and display interesting while carrying a lot of stock. The main aim is to avoid it being boring, with rack after rack of clothing."
Soon, Boyle hopes, the store's database of around 700 clients will have a choice of outlets to flock to, with plans to open a bigger Melbourne store hindered only by the quest for the ideal site.
Once this manoeuvre is complete, Boyle is not averse to expansion even further afield, although she firmly believes in taking small steps.
"It would be nice to eventually expand to sell my work overseas but I don't want to rush the growth of my business too much. I think a few quality customers that are completely happy with and supportive of my label is better than lots of unknown clients."
In the mean time her priority is to simplify the running of the company with the installation of new systems to cater to the Queen label's growing wholesale business.
For some time Queen has supplied a number of Melbourne boutiques including Luca in Northcote, Kundalini Rising in Brunswick Street Fitzroy, Monkhouse on Lygon Street and Dollhouse in St Kilda.
The wholesale business has also recently moved further afield, with new accounts including two stores in regional Victoria (State of Eildon in Eildon and KG on Maroondah in Healesville) as well as stores in Perth (Luster & Love in Tokyo) and Canberra (Department Of the Exterior).