LW: Can you name a person who has most influenced the early stages of your career/label? Why?
AG: I would have to say my mother and my grandfather who taught her. I have never attended fashion school and everything that I have learnt I have done so through my family of tailors. I can always remember sewing machines being part of our lives. I would have to say that I had the best schooling when it came to the fashion industry from being around garment construction and really learning what I did through a very hands-on approach. My family and in particular my mother Meni was a tailor and for many years ran a garment construction business followed by tailoring stores which are still part of the business. It was this knowledge and experience that really made the difference in the early stages of my brand.
LW: What gave you the confidence to start your own label?
AG: I felt that there was a place in the market for a new menswear label that was high fashion and concentrated on great design and quality garments. In addition, the industry experience and my background in manufacturing and garment construction is a factor that also had a bearing on my decision the start the Arthur Galan AG brand. In fashion I always believe that design is important, however being able to produce the garments in a way that is of the highest standard of quality is just as imperative to the success of a brand. My manufacturing background and family history in tailoring whereby everything in a collection is made precise and exacting to the body and my understanding of the concept due to my experience made my decision somewhat easy and with certainly a confidence.
LW: As an established Australian designer, what are the most common mistakes you see young labels make?
AG: This is a hard one to answer because mistakes are lessons, especially in the fashion industry. I think the most important thing that labels need to keep in mind is a sense on commerciality and, to be honest, this is probably the most difficult thing to do. If you are a young designer starting a new label then the thing that you must realise from day one is that your product needs to sell if you are going to survive for the long haul. It’s always great to make the really fun creative pieces, however keep these as your highlight pieces. Look at your target customer and create lots of what they would want to wear without them having to give it too much thought when they are in store ready to purchase. Not easy irrespective of how long you have been in the industry but it is key.
LW: What can’t fashion students learn at university?
AG: School will always teach you the theory and the basis of what you need to do, however until you get out there you really won’t learn everything you need to know about the industry and the ins and outs of what is required. Experience is always so important to what you really need to do to be a great designer. If you can get some experience as you’re going along in your course in any aspect of the fashion industry it will really help you. Knowledge of what is required in the industry and behind the scenes is so important to have a grasp of it will be the key to giving you a head start and a great chance of success.
LW: What do you look for when taking on an employee or intern?
AG: I would have to say a true passion for the fashion industry is what is most important and a sense of understanding of the all-roundedness of what is required when it comes to the work. Design is one aspect of what we do but there is so much more to getting your design concept as a finished garment to your customer and that is something that is key to the job.
LW: How do you balance the creativity of design and the commercial realities of business?
AG: As I have stated above this is probably one of the most difficult tasks along with the commercial production of your collection. It’s always great to go that little bit further, pushing the boundaries of design and it something that you will always do otherwise you wouldn’t be a designer, however you need to balance. Will it sell and if it won’t sell or sell enough of to justify the effort then is there enough PR to be gained by creating this piece to justify it? Sometimes you have to make garments that are statements of creativity but keep it to a smaller percentage of the total collection. You need those easy pieces that sell and that will keep you in business or employed so that is what you have to carefully balance.
LW: What can the Australian fashion industry offer young designers that the international markets can’t?
AG: Small markets like the Australian fashion industry are a great learning ground because they are always willing to try something new such as wearing a new brand. That is what I found when I first started my brand – customers were very accepting of a new label. However, you do have to bear in mind that the Australian consumer is very discerning and it has to be done well otherwise you won’t make it, so if you’re going to put something out there in the marketplace do it well and do it with quality and it will be well received.
LW: Tell me a cliche about the industry that is true?
AG: “You are only as good as your last collection.” You need to keep on your mark when it comes to what you create for your customer, you need to design well and produce them in a quality manner. Customers are very in tune with fashion these days and you can’t afford to slip otherwise they may not come back and building a solid customer base is key. And one that’s not: the fashion industry is all about sipping champagne and going to great shows. So not true!
LW: What’s your proudest achievement?
AG: Being able to build a successful fashion business with my wife and partner Mimi and keep a great balance of family life with our two gorgeous children. OK, sometimes when it’s range time there is a little less football in the park!