Preview the season
Before spring/summer 2011 orders get under way at Fashion Exposed, Daniela Aroche gets the industry scoop on what garments are already selling fast for the coming season.
Womenswear
From bright colours and tailored fits, to delicate floral prints and lace-embellishments, fashion agents are predicting a spring/summer season of bohemian glamour mixed with feminine detailing. At least that's what their order books are telling them.
The glamour ‘70s look is selling particularly well at H&B Fashion Agency, the Victorian-based firm responsible for labels such as Ba&sh, Gat Rimon and Sita Murt.
“What we are seeing as strong sellers so far are pieces that exude that sort of relaxed, ‘70s feel – not hippy, but more so boho glamour,” brand manager Tegan Persons says.
“Shirts and blouses in flowing shapes yet still quite fitted are doing very well, teamed with denim shorts or wide-leg, full-length jeans and bell-bottoms, as are ‘super maxi’ dresses, which are extra long and more voluminous.”
Maxi dresses with sheer panels have also garnered interest from customers, according to Louisa Holmes of Susie Sharrock Fashion Agency, which handles labels such as Little Joe, Project D, Alex Perry and CLYK.
“Previously [last spring/summer] we saw a lot of bare skin cut-outs in the maxi styles, but this summer that has been replaced by sheer panels which can are placed across the stomach, legs or at the bottom of the dress,” she says.
The use of suede from jackets to shorts combined with lace-up fastenings ties in with the ‘70s bohemian glamour style and is prominent across key collections from agents.
Ladylike dressing, a la the 1960s, spurred on by the Mad Men TV series phenomenon and garments such as mid-length ‘baby doll’ and shift dresses and bell skirts are flying off the racks, after a strong winter season.
“Feminine dressing is still in and that look in general has come from the Mad Men influence and a more ladylike length for skirts and dresses come into play,” Persons says.
“Mid-calf in terms of length for skirts in particular is going to be big.”
Holmes says shift dresses are predominantly minis. “That's where you have your shorter lengths, but we are seeing a more conservative length displayed in the collections – it's not all about showing everything this season.”
High-waisted wide-leg shorts, cut just above the knee, are also emerging as a trend for this season. Cheekier hemlines for shorts are still a staple basic for the hotter months with mini shorts, sported by the likes of model Kate Moss, in denim and suede snapped up across womenswear ranges to pair with fitted blouses for the 'boho glamour' look.
Plunging necklines are absent from the strongest selling garments, replaced by more demure, rounded necklines or boatneck cuts.
Delicate buttons feature heavily in most womenswear designs, from blouses and skirts to jumpsuits, superseding zips and large chunky buttons used in military and hard-edge styles seen last season.
Staying with the feminine theme through popular spring/summer collections, Spanish-style hand-cut silk dresses, especially for evening attire, have been successful, as well as maxi and sleeveless shift dresses with ruffled edges.
The feminine aspect has also sneaked into women’s sportswear with good results, according to Holmes. “This summer’s sporting looks have a glamorous spin: bandeau bras and boy shorts add the perfect sporty underpinnings with a feminine flair,” she says.
Tailored looks are also selling well, with a slim-line cut, cropped jackets taking over from the more prominent power shoulders of Balmain-inspired suits and longer lengths of boyfriend-style jackets of last season.
“It’s definitely a more fitted jacket that is on trend this season and the jackets are a little shorter, sitting on the hips with sharper cuts in terms of collars and sleeves,” Persons says.
Bronnie Mander-Jones, national sales representative at Dollface Fashion Agency, who deals with brands such as Talulah, Shakuhachi, Ruby Smallbone, House of Harlow, Maniamania, Ellery and Michael Lo Sordo, agrees and says blazers are still popular.
“Blazers are still quite strong, but little cropped ones, Bolero styles and those in lace and crochet are stronger for summer,” she says. “Crochet and vests are also on trend.”
The tailored look also extends to pants, including cargos, jumpsuits and playsuits, and trousers are cropped with slimmer lines in straight-leg styles.
Layered looks, constructed with soft-knit fabrics and relaxed basics are transeasonal pieces still favoured by the 30+ contingent, according to Phoebe Garland of Garland & Garland Fashion agency, who takes care of brands such as Yvonne Black, Black Pepper, Adam Jacobs, Picadilly, Picadilly Gold and Mossee.
“Lightweight cardigans and knits, tunics, longer-length tops with asymmetrical hemlines, leggings and basics are popular for the layered look.
“These and transeasonal pieces, including sleeveless tunics, three-quarter length pants and leggings, have continued through from autumn/winter because of our climate,” Garland says.
Resortwear and nautical styles are also proving strong sellers but are more of a micro-trend outside of the 30+ market.
“Resort wear and nautical is featuring strongly and it's a very classic look – think loose, jersey-style white pants with a cotton shirt or kaftan, plain or detailed with embroidery, and mid-length shorts or pants with plenty of navy and white,” she says.
Fabrics
Quality lightweight materials and luxe fabrics reign supreme across all collections and age markets this spring/summer 2011/12, Garland says.“
The market is very price conscious at the moment, so your stock has to stand out. Quality is essential and the selling point is the calibre – the 30+ market especially is very fabric-driven market.”
Natural fibres are the strongest selling materials across all styles and labels, with pure silk, silk crepe de chine in brands such as Little Joe, cotton including French cotton lace and European micro-modal at the top of the list.
Holmes says lighter knitwear in particular is a strong seller in the collections they handle. “It sells extremely well for us, and can be anything from a light cashmere blend, to a cotton/silk blend, or a linen blend,” she says.
Organic bamboo fabric, a new entrant to the market used for jackets in collections such as Mossee, is a micro-trend that is selling well in the 30+ market, according to Garland, due to the combination of water-absorbent qualities, durability and soft light-weight feel.
Leather in trims and suede in jackets and shorts, showcased in CYLK, Ba&sh and Chronicles of Never collections, is extremely popular across both men’s and women’s wear.
“We’ve been using quite a bit of leather even though it’s summer and suede has been a good seller because it’s lighter and a little bit more wearable,” Chronicles of Never global sales manager Peter Jones says.
“We also use silk lining in all our leather jackets, and denim across a range of washes also remains one of the strongest sellers for men and women.”
Micro-trends in prints for the younger market include safari style, says Mander-Jones. “Prints such as cheetah and zebra against white for summer are doing well.”
Colours
Earthy, natural tones and bright bold shades dominate the strong sellers in the upcoming spring/summer ranges across womenswear and menswear.
Coral and blood reds, cobalt and cornflower blues, lime to emerald greens, aqua, tangerine, yellow and pinks and purples in all shades are present across the top-selling collections, broken up with whites when colour blocking, blacks and distributed in various combinations across floral prints.
“Floral is huge across all ranges and most prints are featuring brighter colours, with many designs also displaying pink floral bases, with nude coming through,” Holmes says.
Organic tones such as khaki, cream, olive, brown, rusty terracottas and camel, especially in suede apparel, add to the bohemian, '70s vibe that is on-trend this season.
Fresh whites, black, softer oyster greys and navy are still popular, particularly in lace-embellished garments or paired together.
Accessories
The bohemian glamour look creeps into the realm of accessories this spring/summer season with headpieces, intricate ring and bracelet combos and large, raw-cut stones.
Fashion boutique Miijo, which specialises in selling celebrity-based products to the Australian market, has seen interest in pieces such as the hammered triangle hand comb, the Luv large triple crystal cocktail ring by Low Luv and the House of Harlow triangle crescent cuff, according to Miijo’s owner, Mike Napier.
“The overall look is one of easy layering with soft fabrics teamed with a sharp, tailored blazer and a luxe accessory,” Napier says. “Body adornment is also big this summer.
He says gold is prominent, followed by black, silver and gun-metal and accessories incorporating luxe finishes in leather and glossy resins combined with natural stones and crystals.
“Shoe drawings, a jewellery chain that is drawn over boots to achieve the boho look, and coins on necklaces and bracelets are also very big for this spring/summer,” Mander-Jones says.
Belts are thinner with more delicate buckles, and leather and suede bags in single-strap boho slouch styles and satchels are on trend for women’s bags, as are clutches in all shapes and sizes.
Shoes for women will vary with an emphasis on open strappy heels in suede and a major push towards the high-heeled lace-up boot with peep-toe detail. For men, bowling bags in all shapes and sizes such as those by Ben Sherman, plaited-leather and material belts, and suede desert-style boots are in season.
Menswear
The strongest selling pieces for menswear are a mix of traditional basics, mixed with un-conventional colours, styles and cuts for the under 30 ranges.
Robert Garland of Garland & Garland Fashion Agency handles Breakaway menswear, which caters to a more mature market. He says the top-sellers for the 30+ age range remain the modern classics, such as tailored shorts, cargos, and polo and crewneck t-shirts with pocket details in basic colours and checkered and jacquard prints.
For the younger market, Ben Sherman's national sales manager Tom Firth says chino pants and shorts in an array of colours are on every buyer's list and polos, chambray and patterned shirts, including stripes, are also very popular.
“Our heritage classic button-down check shirts in particular are continuously proving to be best sellers for SS10, and they are on the top again this S11, but chinos will be the quintessential piece this spring/summer,” Firth says.
Jones of Chronicles of Never says he has seen a trend towards more unusual shapes in his top-selling pieces, such as unisex eyewear (Earth Bears Metal style in particular) and jackets.
“We're seeing a liking for the more characteristic shapes with more heavy-set frames and hardy French hinges,” he says. "In men's jackets, there seems to be a push towards de-construction and anti-formalism.
“They're left just as they are. Collars and sleeves are sort of cut raw, there's no hemming and they don't have fastening at the front – they're just left open with no buttons or zippers and are treated as a 'second skin'.”
Jeans are still a staple item in menswear and washes ranging from classic navy blue and black to blood red, sky blue and cream washes with unique finishes, such as sprayed industrial pigment or bleached stains are selling well.
Slim-straight, standard-fit styles, such as Neoism by Chronicles of Never, are particularly strong, according to Jones. “For men’s trousers, I would say pseudo-suiting is in and in terms of tailoring – looser is best, including drop crutch styles,” he adds.
Price points
With the buyers’ market still cautious in terms of spending, the strongest selling price points fall under $300, with $150-$200 the most popular for apparel and under $100 for jewellery. The evening dress category in womenswear is the only exception, where price points spike to around $600-$800 for dresses in luxe fabrics.
“Anything that retails under $200 tends to do the most volume in sales; anything over that price point and it has be something the customer has to love in order for them to spend that money,” Phoebe Garland says.
“So in order to do higher volumes it's best that designers and manufacturers keep it affordable.”