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SYDNEY: A government funded export initiative has been put on ice, with key players blaming the hectic lead up to spring/summer for the lack of progress.

The Council of Textiles and Fashion Industries Australia (TFIA), Austrade and NSW Industry & Investment joined together in early 2010 to create the Australian Fashion Export Cluster (AFEC). The cluster was conceived as a practical way to assist emerging designers establish successful export practices as well as develop more ethical, sustainable and ‘green’ businesses.

The three industry bodies – the cluster’s ‘principal partners’ – officially launched AFEC in March, inviting designers to apply for AFEC membership. However, in the week the TFIA’s industry liaison, Paula Rogers, was due to announce the 25 successful applicants, she revealed the entire project had been put on ice.

“The key factors were that many [designers] wanted to take time to get their heads into the export space, and also that they were heading into the busiest time of the year,” Rogers said.

She rejected suggestions the cluster’s member-driven format – in which emerging designer members rather than the principal partners were due to coordinate activities – was problematic.

“We wish to work collaboratively, and that means listening to industry and what works for them. Achieving in export markets requires a concentrated and committed approach... often it’s slow and steady wins the race.”

Rogers revealed the cluster will recommence its activities in early 2011. She said the six-month delay was not expected to affect the cluster’s capacity to access funding granted to it by the NSW Government’s Strategic Business Cluster program in April 2010. TFIA executive director Jo Kellock said she believed the grant amounted to $10,000 with matching contributions.  

Among the established companies that turned out to support AFEC’s March launch were Nobody Jeans and The Merino Company. Emerging brands that attended the launch and expressed interest in obtaining AFEC membership included womenswear label Guanabana Designs, underwear label Cilla & Pepe and milliner Jane Stoddart.

Guanabana Designs director Linda Bergskås applied for AFEC membership this year in the wake of commencing exporting in 2009. Current international stockists of Guanabana Designs include US retailers Barneys New York and Kitson and Japanese retailers United Arrows and Estnation.

“Being new to international business the last year, we have experienced new challenges, so for us [it] is the perfect time to get some more education as how to tackle this and to continue maintaining and expand in the international market,” Bergskås said.

“For us it suits perfect that they postponed until 2011, just due to our schedule for the rest of this year is very booked with overseas trips.”

Milliner Jane Stoddart is still considering whether to apply for AFEC membership. She is concerned by the tensions she sees between the AFEC’s stated aim of encouraging sustainable export and the realities of exporting, namely encouraging consumption and chewing up natural resources via international transportation.

“I’m interested in selling overseas, but only in a small, targeted, ethical and efficient way,” Stoddart said. “I’ve had a bit to do with Austrade and NSW government. They really want export dollars, jobs, business growth – understandably, they’re spending taxpayer dollars. That might pull me in a different direction; it might be simpler to do it all myself.”

The original 2010 AFEC program was scheduled to run from March 2010 to March 2011, with seminars held throughout the year to guide members on issues such as sustainable business practices, supply chain management and ethical compliance. Members were also due to participate in monthly online conference meetings.

Brands still interested in membership can apply on the TFIA website.

Erin O’Loughlin

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