NATIONAL: Two of the biggest names in Australian fashion have come out swinging against the local manufacturing sector, arguing the standard here is below that offered by offshore competitors.
High profile designers Nicky Zimmermann and Josh Goot have both spoken out about problems encountered when using local manufacturers, citing issues with the quality and consistency of the make.
Speaking while part of a panel at Fashion Group International's fashion flash breakfast recently Zimmermann described Australian manufacturing as "an absolute dying art".
Zimmermann, whose high-end womenswear and swimwear brand is sold all around the world, admitted 60 per cent of the label she runs with sister Simone is now made offshore.
"I would say quite often we get better quality [in China] - which I know is a difficult thing for some people to get their head around. If we want to do any kind of mass manufacturing in Australia they [local manufacturers] are not doing it well."
Zimmermann, who sources her fabrics from all over the world and prints solely offshore, said while there was not as much flexibility in terms of deadlines with overseas manufacturers, there was also the opportunity to get much better margin.
"China has every kind of machine you can imagine. The [Australian] businesses from what I've seen are getting smaller and smaller and smaller and having more and more difficulties."
Goot, who manufacturers his eponymous label solely in Australia, said his only experience with making overseas was during his 2007 collaboration with mass market retailer Target. He too admitted having had some issues with the quality of Australian production.
"Our volumes are really small. But we do have certain challenges with the quality of the make locally."
Goot said he invested a lot of time and energy working with his makers to ensure the standard was "as high as it needs to be".
"Certainly with our competitors internationally who are making internationally there is a better craftsmanship, better machinery and better standards in general. [There is] also a better understanding of that end of the market and what is required to be at that end of the market."
Akira Isogawa, who was part of the same panel, said his diffusion line Akira Red is manufactured in China but his main collection Akira Black is made in Australia.
"Totally 100 per cent my first choice [for Akira Red] is offshore. The [fluctuation] of the Australian dollar [has meant] it has become much more expensive. We are taking less margin now but we'll just have to wear that."
The federal government's recent TCF Review 'Building Innovative Capability' found while China was the front runner for Australian labels looking to produce offshore, competing nations included Indonesia, Thailand, India, Pakistan, Mexico, the Caribbean islands, Turkey and some North African countries had proved viable alternatives.
The report found that part of the attraction for labels to manufacture offshore was the notable difference in labour costs. Award pay scales for Australian employees working in the clothing industry ranged from $13 to $17 per hour depending on skill level while wages in China ranged from $US1 to $US1.50 ($A1.40 to $A2.10) per hour.