How can designers plan for a more lucrative autumn/winter 2012? By taking stock of what sold for a/w 2011. Melinda Oliver speaks to key fashion agents.
In autumn/ winter 2010 it was impossible to escape the power jacket. Inspired by international brand Balmain, local designers created tailored blazers with accentuated shoulders, strong embellishment and asymmetrical cuts.
However, wholesale fashion agents have revealed it is now time for the trouser to take centre stage. They report that cropped, tailored or slouched pants with directional cuts and luxurious fabrics will invade boutique racks when winter 2011 deliveries arrive next month.
Agent Carla Robinson, of Sydney-based Nick Mascitelli Imports, says tailored silk pants have been hugely popular with buyers for the winter season.
“This is almost replacing the harem pant that we have seen recently – but this is more of a tailored and cropped pant,” she says. “It is that whole boyfriend-chic look – they are a bit more structured but they are cuffed and rolled up to mid-calf.
“Our brands have included a few style variations on the pants – a lot are high-waisted and a lot have dropped down a bit on the hips.”
Robinson takes care of Australian and New Zealand sales for UK label twenty8twelve by s.miller and French brands Iro and Lou de Beauregard. She says for some buyers, an increased interest in trousers has overtaken the usual bulk orders of winter denim.
“We’ve got lots of different fabrics ... silks, linens, heavier cotton sateen mixes,” she says. “Also replacing denim are Lolita-style leather pants, so a very tight, sexy, biker look.”
To complement trousers, Robinson says shirt sales have been particularly strong, along with a continuation of interest in leather jackets with a biker or aviator theme. In addition, loose-fitting, lightweight knits such as slouchy, off-the-shoulder tops have also sold well to team up with the trousers. Tailored shorts have also proven popular, in leather and suede.
“So you would wear your tights underneath [the shorts] or your boots and your socks,” she says.
Robinson reports that 1950s-style full dresses have also been picked up by the more directional boutiques, tapping into the Mad Men television series that has reignited the vintage trend.
In terms of colour, Robinson says 1970s-inspired muted pastels such as dusty roses and purples have been the dominant shades chosen. The winter 2010 trend towards dramatic embellishment, with brass and gold, has been replaced by a desire to clash and layer multiple textures.
“Instead of all the studs and fixtures, it is more concentrating on mixing your denim and your suedes and leathers – its pretty eclectic,” she says.
EVH sales director Robyn Catinella also experienced strong trouser sales for winter. She says the wool and linen suiting range from Fernando Frisoni is an example of how tailoring with a twist has been successful.
“There was a strong emphasis on silhouettes, where strong contrasts with feminine,” she says.
Catinella also sold the Ellery, Megan Park and Banjo & Matilda collections. She says peplum and cocoon-shaped jackets and dresses from Ellery have been picked up by buyers keen to attract confident consumers.
“Texture [dominates] over embellishment for winter,” she says. “Buyers that bought heavily into embellished styles for spring/summer 2010 went for more textural, luxurious fabrications for autumn/winter 2011. Any embellishment used are highlights only.”
Catinella says ivory shades have been popular with buyers, along with a fun macaroon pink colour in the Ellery offer.
“Grey is becoming the autumn/winter 2011 staple, with most buyers staying well clear of black when offered a colour option.”
Sydney-based agent Phoebe Garland takes care of a more mature market, selling womenswear brands Black Pepper, Yvonne Black, Me First, Mossee and La Dame knitwear.
She says tunics and dresses with sleeves have been a more important category for this sector, however leggings are very significant.
“There is a very strong asymmetrical look and also layering. The 30-plus market tends to have a lot of layering with cardigans and leggings.”
Garland says winter jackets for this category also have more directional shapes, with balloon hems, smock collars and crushed fabrics popular. Dominant colours chosen include magenta, red and white.
“Purples feature very strongly, we have paprika and mushroom, very orangey colours and dark grey.”
Garland says buyers have been generally cautious with orders for the season, following difficult retail trade throughout summer 2010.
“We expected that and we expect it to continue next season. It will be a little while until they [retailers] can bring their head up."