You have an impressive background of designing with other people’s ideals in mind. Creatively, and strategically, are there many differences between yourself as a designer now, compared with yourself designing under the banner of someone else’s label?
Good question. I have worked for some powerful names; I was pretty much able to do what I wanted and rarely designing anything that I didn’t like, maybe a piece here or there. Having your own label is a different story - it’s a lot harder in every way. You don’t have the power you have with a ‘big’ name and you have to do everything, from calling up buyers/retailers through to invoicing, designing, fitting, warehousing, packing - you have many restrictions and limitations more than you ever had working for someone else. You have to be the good guy and the bad, it’s challenging and taxing. I started my own line out of necessity - it wasn’t something I dreamed of doing, I did it out of necessity.
Does the label’s name go deeper than its aesthetic?
On a deeper level, Citizen is what we all are in this world. I think society and civilisation is being broken down as well and things are changing, barriers are coming down, things are moving forward at a rapid pace. So citizens themselves are being deconstructed. Deconstructed means to take apart; we take apart the basics of a man’s wardrobe - the pant, the jean jacket, the trench, the pea coat, the classic staples of menswear - and we put them back together in a different way. A newer and even maybe more exciting way.
More specifically, with so much talk of sustainability within our industry, do you believe our role is to deconstruct our processes and rebuild with sustainable ethics in mind?
Yes. However, I believe these changes need to come from bigger corporate companies; small companies already have an uphill battle. I try to live as ethically as I can afford.
You’ve previously mentioned that you find the Australian fashion industry to be uninspired, unoriginal and our market flooded with product directly sourced and copied from overseas.
True. The 80s was Australia’s high point in fashion as far as I’m concerned. Jenny Kee, Linda Jackson, Katie Pye, Stuart Membery – they were original, innovative and adored overseas!
I imagine in the years ahead this could be a dangerous path for Australian labels to continue down. Online shopping gives consumers instant access to the global brands that are the catalyst for these trends, at very competitive prices. What is your opinion on this?
I totally agree with you. Generally speaking, the Australian industry is terrified of the increase of global online shopping, and it’s really just beginning. Also, the high street chains have arrived - Gap, Zara, and Topshop - and I suspect it’s only a matter of time before H&M, Uniqlo and Club Monaco, hit our shores.
Do you believe the Australian retail model must “innovate or die”?
Yes, the local retail model has to change and evolve. If more overseas stores are allowed to open here then Australian labels will need to become more localised and original.
STUDENT 101
Sarah Curtin recently graduated from a Bachelor of Applied Science in Fashion Technology at RMIT and now runs a design and product development agency and designs and produces for brands such as Mr Simple.
Above: Summer 2010 Moneypenny collection - “Death Warmed Up” - fourth commercial range.
Below: Final year range- Nine piece women’s active sportswear range, designed semester 1 of final year (third year). Designed to be fully functional active sportswear, that has fashionable styling. I won two awards at the Textile Institute Awards in 2010 for the range.
Below: Summer 2011 collection. I was approached to be head of product development and production for Mr Simple, which at the time only made plain t-shirts. I helped develop the label to a full range, which was launched in over 50 retail store for its first major season. I also developed a range of men’s snowboard outerwear for the rental market under the name of Mr Simple, at this time.
