Cardboard cut out

Developments in CAD systems are eliminating manual pattern making methods in Australia's design rooms. Samantha Docherty reports. 
 
Recent years have seen a rash of pattern-makers discarding manual methods in favour of producing patterns straight on screen. Computer Aided Design - or CAD for short - has developed over the past two to three years from a pattern modification system to a complete pattern design process.

Aided by advancements in computer technology, CAD systems have raised the bar of quality and precision and dramatically reduced the time it takes to produce a block. Lectra Australasia managing director Peter Richardson says computer processing power has changed most operating systems.

"Computers used to use two megabyte, now it's up to one gig. Mark making is done more efficiently and often in the background while working on patterns and grading."

An additional development is the ability to create fit using 3D images. Algorithms developed over the past five to 10 years are now very good also, says Richardson. "Pattern makers are now capable of processing something in an hour that previously would have taken a week. By taking a basic block and manipulating it onscreen [pattern makers] are keeping the grading affiliated with the block and saving a lot of time."

Sydney-based fashion and textile designer Kathleen Berney previously produced patterns by hand.
"Looking back it seems so antiquated with the girls cutting everything by hand, but I guess you do when introducing any technology into a business."

Allowing the business to run smoother, the womenswear company has been using StyleCAD for three years.
"The patterns are more precise and from a time saving point of view and for grading and sizing it has made the business more efficient," says Berney. Spending $36,000 on the system, the initial suggestion to introduce a CAD program came from the company's bank manager. Kathleen Berney co-owner Michael Reddish says even though it is a small business it has been a sound economical choice.

"The payments we were paying per month were less than we were paying our pattern makers. If you look at it in terms of cash flow it doesn't take much imagination to see that a small business can afford it. Our business has expanded quite a lot. Turnover has doubled since introducing the system. StyleCAD is by no means the only reason why but it has been a contributing factor. Using a CAD system raises the standard of everything you do. Because it is a machine you need to give it instructions and then all the different aspects are perfect. If you use a pattern maker they are imposing their will and idiosyncrasies into the pattern."

Rarely using cardboard now, Kookai's pattern makers create the entire pattern on screen. Manipulating the pieces as you would a card pattern very few now need to be digitised into the computer, according to senior pattern room manager Jacqui Lowe.

"With high turnover of product a CAD pattern system is definitely a quicker and more efficient way of doing our job. I don't think we will replace cardboard patterns completely - and I hope we don't because it is a fabulous skill - but there is little that you can not do in the system."

Emailing graded patterns to suppliers Kookai is able to convert patterns to .dxf so other systems can read the files.
As CAD systems get better and better Lowe says the key is for them to remain user friendly.

"Sometimes it is the easiest functions that are the best. I don't know that the systems need to get too complicated because that way they become too difficult for people to use. There are always improvements to be made to any CAD system to make them more user-friendly. There are certainly bugs to be ironed out, but all in all [Kookai's] StyleCAD system was very easy to learn."

This is a far cry from CAD's early days. Capron Carter CAD/computer-aided manufacturing (CAM) manager Graeme Baker says as little as five years ago existing pattern programs were too hard to use.

"There are still a lot of people that can't get their head around design on screen. Different fabric reacts differently and they need to see that. But they have developed. Now used for a lot more steps of pattern making than just grading, features are easier for pattern makers to use.

"CAD systems are the way of the future for designing basic fast fashion styles and uniforms, but they will not engulf the high end fashion market. Brands such as Collette Dinnigan don't use CAD for designing initial pattern styles but they do use it for grading and modifying existing styles."

Suggesting it depends on the company and if the person is resistant to change, Richardson says new recruits can often computerise a pattern room.

"If you have learnt that way at college - sometimes [graduates] are the instigators of change." Disappointed in Australia's shortage of pattern makers and graders Richardson says he receives phone calls every week from manufacturers looking for pattern makers.

"Over the last 18 months to two years a lot of the big players in the industry are bringing their pattern development back into Australia for a better fit. There is a big demand for pattern makers and graders. [Australia] has an amazing shortage."

"Now [that] the industry is a lot smaller there isn't the opportunity to take on apprentices. Where do they get work experience? A lot of the students are from overseas and they return overseas after graduation. There needs to be subsidised grants from the government to take on graduates."

A step closer in revitalising Australia's declining TCF industry, Kangan Bateman TAFE unveiled its state-of-the-art fashion industry training centre in Richmond, Melbourne late last year.

A $4.6 million project, the centre hopes to create increased access for students, the community and industry. Garment construction rooms that simulate industry workrooms and manual pattern making facilities are teamed with a CAD/CAM design area housing the latest design, pattern-making, grading and cutting technology.

Kangan Bateman TAFE Centre of Fashion manager Odile Higgins feels fashion graduates have no problem establishing a good pattern making and grading career path in Australia.

"There are a lot more boutique shops and designers that need pattern makers and graders. Tailoring is another area where there is a huge shortage. If we let these skills go we are really in trouble.

"The bulk of our students do end up in fashion but we are not sure how it is divided up. How many are in design, construction or retail is unknown. We are launching a destination survey of last year's graduates to determine this. It will enable the TAFE to better say where they are ending up in the workforce."

Placing more emphasis on computer aided training in the past three to five years, Kangan Bateman TAFE has recruited a teacher specialising in CAD/CAM programs.

Previously spending 150 hours on electronic pattern making and grading training, students now spend 240 hours over a three-year Applied Fashion Design and Technology degree.

"The trend over the past three years is that the underlying principles are taught in Cert IV [first year] to reinforce a strong grounding in [manual] pattern making techniques and methodologies before [students] attempt computer aided programs," says Higgins

"In today's industry it is essential graduates have a firm understanding of CAD/CAM along with manual pattern making and grading. We are putting more of an emphasis on CAD/CAM at both a national and international level. CAD/CAM training is critical."

 By Samantha Docherty