Luscious legs
Australian legs have never looked so good.
According to a recent report on knitting mills in Australia, pantyhose and half hose products represent approximately 22 percent of the product manufactured in knitting mills in 2004/05.
Yet that same report, compiled by corporate research firm IBISWorld and released on January 25 this year, showed the category also accounted for around 69.9 percent of the mills' revenue during the same period.
Today, approximately 50 manufacturers are producing hosiery (including stockings, socks, tights and pantyhose), however turnover is declining.
In 2004/05, revenue in the hosiery manufacturing industry was $127.7 million. Down 10.5 percent from $142.7 million in 2003/04, the 2005/06 period saw it continue its descent - down an additional 4.5 percent to $122 million.
But even with declining sales in the hosiery category, Australia's biggest hosiery manufacturer, Pacific Brands Hosiery Group (PBHG), saw its sales revenue rise to $1.62 billion with a net profit increase after tax of $101.2 million.
Offering brands including Razzamatazz, Kolotex, Kayser, Voodoo, Platinum, Leona Edmiston, Kicks, Wicked and Sheer Relief, PBHG produces more than half of all hosiery products purchased in Australia.
Holding more than 70 percent of the Australian hosiery market share, PBHG has been manufacturing hosiery from its Melbourne-based site for more over 70 years. Citing a competitive advantage in being locally involved suppliers, manufacturers and marketers, PBHG general manager Kate Hann says the company's ability to tap into the Australian market has attributed to its success.
"We associate closely with the Australian market's fashion tastes and needs and execute strong responsiveness in speed to market. Our on-site dye laboratory gives us the ability to create fashion coloured hosiery in desirable skin tones at a quick turn around and our team of knit specialists - who've worked in the hosiery industry for over 45 years - are constantly creating new yarn and knit innovations interpreted through world trends."
Searching for clearly defined brands that represent features and benefits they can rely on, Hann feels Australian customers are looking for colour selection and trend fashion items that complement their wardrobes when purchasing hosiery.
"Whether its skin tones in sheers or a spectrum of colours in opaques and patterned tights, from basic styles to bold catwalk designs, Australian women are increasingly recognising leg wear as an essential fashion accessory. Hosiery is incredibly versatile, catering for all ages and season changes and can be enjoyed through casual to corporate dress codes."
With the opinion Australian customers primarily want their hosiery purchases to be simple, Ambra Corporation national brands manager Marlene Smillie says customers want the product to deliver the functions they require - be it sheerness, leg support or body control.
"Quality and durability are as important as comfort and colour. Being a rather specialised area, there are only two main players in Australian hosiery - Ambra Corporation and Pacific Brands. The success of our brands has come from having a clear focus on who our target customer is for each of the brands, product innovation, identifying gaps in the market and a lot of hard work and dedication at all levels of the business."
Selling Levante, Ambra and Jonathan Aston, Ambra Corporation's hosiery is designed very much the same way as apparel. Following trend forecasts for colour and design details, to ensure the product has the right 'fit' with the fashion looks for the season, the company's designers attend all the key trend forecasting fairs globally each season to interpret the appropriate trends into hosiery.
"We also look at gaps in the market when designing new products", says Smillie.
"Listening to what consumers want but can't find, we pride ourselves with being first to the market with new innovations each season."
An example of this is Ambra's response to market research on the teen consumer. Launching the first 'Hipster School' tight into the market the tight - available in a range of school colours - is a durable mid-weight opaque at a value price with an all important hipster feature to eliminate rolling down waistbands.
Also responding to the growing market demand for fuller figure fashion, PBHG's Platinum label has extended a selection of its fashion footless tights and patterns into 'Plus' sizing for the voluptuous woman.
Predicting fashion hosiery will be even stronger in Australia for autumn/winter 2007, Smillie says the footless and opaque trend will continue to dominate with the over-the-knee look increasing in uptake in the junior market.
"The footless tight continues to be a huge trend and Ambra will be offering a great range of footless tights in opaque, fishnet, marle effect and stripes.
"Footless tights are everywhere and have been Agreeing the knee-high and over-the-knee look will be very fashionable this winter, Alannah Hill will be offering over-the-knee designs as part of the 12 styles in her range this season. One of the first Australian apparel designers to include hosiery as part of her collection, Hill launched her hosiery line seven years ago due to customer demand.
"People were asking for them, there was obviously a real market for them. I have always loved hosiery. It has been one of my all time favourite accessories and it can add an extra dimension to any little costume. There's also an element of it being practical, but people want their pins to look fancy," says Hill.
With more clothing designers and celebrities - such as LK Legs by Love Kylie - slipping into the hosiery market, does the association with a recognised figure help boost hosiery sales?
Smillie says hosiery being seen as a fashion/designer item is good for the entire industry.
"It raises the profile of all [hosiery] product in the market place with the fashion conscious consumer. Designer brands will only ever represent a small percentage of market sales, as consumers look to the main brands for variety and depth of product offer. With hosiery currently seen as an important accessory to the seasons look, I think the trend of designer hosiery is cyclical - at the moment fashion styles are seen as an important component of the overall hosiery offer."
For PBHG, the timing and launch of the Leona Edmiston Pins range was ideal according to PBHG senior product manager Laura McDonald.
"A designer indulgent brand was seen as an opportunity not currently being met in the Australian hosiery market. Leona Edmiston's philosophy of frocks held the perfect synergy with a hosiery range, as all legs require a touch of finishing when exposed."
Launched two years ago, the collaboration between PBHG and Leona Edmiston came about "after a life, long love affair with hosiery", according to Edmiston.
The perfect accessory for the designer's frocks - particularly during winter - the hosiery range is inspired by colours, prints and themes of the season from Edmiston's apparel range.
Offering opaques, stay-ups, sheers and a seasonal signature collection, Edmiston says as a product, hosiery is becoming more popular with each season.
"The dress is the 'it' item for the wardrobe at the moment which only heightens the demand for hosiery, but when it comes to sales ultimately it's about the product. Pins is a great product with beautiful packaging and superior yarns that are comfortable and long lasting. Durability is something that's extremely important with hosiery, and I'm always aware of this."