Jenny Bannister: Iconic designer honoured on a commemorative Australian postage stamp, along with Collette Dinnigan, Akira Isogawa and Carla Zampatti.

BLOG: The vanishing point

Iconic Australian fashion designer Jenny Bannister speaks out on "boutique territorialism" and its impact on the local fashion industry. Bannister's legacy continues, with her work still collected and exhibited by major Australian art galleries and museums.

What I am hearing loud and clear from our emerging designers - and even established designers - is where can I get small quantities made in Melbourne?

Due to boutique territorialism, unique and creative designers are being told by their stockists not to sell anywhere else in the same city. Boutiques do this to keep the label exclusive to themselves, thinking they will make all the profit from" the next kid in vogue" and have a product of difference to entice people into their store.

Unfortunately, these retail owners only buy a few of each style and never the entire collection. This causes the designer to source manufacturers who will make maybe only seven units of a style. In the past, designers had only to look up the local paper and phone all the dressmaker adverts. This was very workable: local dressmakers were all set up to only make one or six of a kind, as local customers used these services for bridesmaids, wedding gowns and other one-off dresses.

Now with the advent of cheap imports flooding our market place, and the lack of skilled dress makers, the adverts have vanished. None of the last factories left standing are interested in a small run. Time after time they will say, "sorry love, to cut seven is the same as cutting 100. If you had 30 units I might do the work but I will have to charge you another 30 per cent for a small run as I have to make some money myself to keep this factory open".

All this is sadly killing our future design industry.

The only youngish designers doing volume are the lucky few who have been picked up by department stores. These designers are not necessarily the most creative designers, they have been chosen because the stores can see some profit in their work. At the other end we have the independent, innovative, exciting designers who are "too fabulous for the majors" and sell to "cool" boutiques only.

My big question is; where are the small run manufacturers hiding and why? Why can't we find them in the phone book? Or on the web? I always get a call from a youngish designer, asking me advice on this matter. Can someone please open their heart and mouth and help this new generation? Otherwise it's futile having 2,500 fashion grads pour out every year in Melbourne alone from approximately seven fashion schools.

reader comments

  • Is this maker, in SA, up to speed with all the union paperwork? Poor man, It's like putting him thru hell, B4 you even see his quaility.
    jenny bannister on 20-Aug-10 10:57 AM

  • I know of a maker in desperate need for work based in S.A he is a lot cheaper than the NSW makers and all people manufacturing in Australia should contact the details below, he has had experience in production for a Myer based brand. Young And Old Clothing 259 Hanson Road Wingfield SA 5013 Phone 08 8244 4477 Fax 08 8244 4511
    Phoebes Garland on 18-Aug-10 06:49 PM

  • It comes down to consumer education, doesn't it? We did alright in the 80s and 90s with the Australian Made push and the introduction of the green and gold triangle, but we seem to have lost the momentum with that project. The big question is how do we re-educate an entire population to make them WANT to spend that little bit extra money, time and effort to source and buy Australian made garments from Australian designers? I am working on some ideas in the works and I'll gladly collaborate with anyone who has their own. See you all at MSFW!
    Mark - Vogue Model Management on 18-Aug-10 06:07 PM

  • HI Guys For an excellent maker based in S.A use this guy, he did manufacturing for my step daughters label and the quality is fantastic. He is reliable and handled production when she was supplying Myer. Sadly with three labels she now goes to China but if have a small label this might be worth the trips to S.A to produce. Young And Old Clothing 259 Hanson Road Wingfield SA 5013 Phone 08 8244 4477 Fax 08 8244 4511 Mobile 0402 847 564
    Phoebe Garland on 17-Aug-10 07:41 PM

  • I am the first time on this site and am really enthusiastic about and so many good articles. I think it's just very good.
    Secret Admirer on 11-Aug-10 07:33 AM

  • Jacinta, glad you are doing the recycling competion, and thanks for contacting me, It's shameful how some the educated fashion grads can't sew. But how about, who they find to sew for them?? this is where "giving work out" in the union award comes in to make the degree of difficulty, in establishing a label, even more stressful. By federal law this young creative person, has to register with the AIRC, get a BOR number, Get an ABN number for the person sewing it and for themselves, Send in forms to AIRC and TCFUA every quarter, and fill in forms everytime they give out even one or 3 garments to their sewing person, the forms have 3 pages to each hand out. Most of them don't even know that they are breaking the law, by not doing all this, Jacinta, why don't you go to ECA and see how they can help you and your suppliers thru this paper trail?? Google Ethical clothing australia, and take your pick from a list of TCF experts. and Please report back. We are all dying to hear how you go
    jenny bannister on 29-Jul-10 09:47 AM

  • as a retailer of oz made product, I can tell you my customers are well aware of where their purchase is made cos i tell them! I take the opportunity to educate them. I am also amazed at how much oz made product I am finding. the more I look the more there seems to be. Many labels are well established and manufacture in house. However, i know there is a sshhh policy around small makers because they are rare as hen's teeth and no-one wants to lose their "spot" in the loop to someone else. I have been seeking the work of new local designers recently via a competition about recycling. I have been inundated with contact from people doing their own thing and am constantly amazed by their creativity. Many just don't know how to sew! The courses they do are simply not structured toward onshore production...it seems. Please tell me I'm wrong! And by the way...imported does not equal cheaper...many of my onshore labels are competitive on price for simple garments. I believe punters and retailers just don't think outside the mainstream. and don't even get me started on exclusivity....where I am it can be a nightmare and cause for much stress!
    Jacinta Birchall on 28-Jul-10 03:40 PM

  • nice to be here.... thanks for share
    Secret Admirer on 27-Jul-10 11:35 PM

  • what about the australian fashion Exchange. do they have production facilities and or contacts??
    jenny bannister on 08-Jul-10 12:50 PM

  • i am hearing you all load & clear! I own a boutitique business designing/manufacturing & selling children's hats & accessories I have been forced to source an offshore manufacturer as there is no one (that I can find) in Aust to manufacture my designs that I can then on sell at a competitive price. this brand has been around for 17yrs, I hope it will be for another 17...
    sharon begg on 08-Jul-10 11:17 AM

  • well Digbys must be a vertical intergrated business with in house machinists? Or Kosher contractors? Lucky Charlie.You have also been around for many years. Well done.Your clothes are beautiful also. Now for Lou's garage workroom. Yes some designers did start in their garage, and some sewing contractors still work in garages.It saves rent,and keeps you close to home with no travel or fuel costs.some designers originated out of their bedrooms or rumpus rooms.and alot of the young designers these days cannot sew very well.some really hot designers still do a lot of the sewing themselves, so it is perfect. and cause they can't find the right employees. and or they can't afford the right staff. Manufacturers should be treated like precious gems, as they are the people who make your garment come to life. You should never haggle them down in price, you must respect them, and there are not many left. It would be good if design schools could teach the students how to source makers, and start relationships, while they are still at school.go sweep the floor for nothing and make yourself indespensible to these brave souls, these guys have to navigate, quaility control, time tables, staff issues, H&S and a huge mound of paperwork pertaining to super, holidays.sickpay, worksafe, Industrial relations, B4 they even look at your "waste of time order" and Lady Phillips says it all when she states" the retailers don't care where it is made" most retailers want to get their stock at the lowest prices so they can compete out there, against all the other retailers.I know local labels who have been told to drop their wholesale price $30 on a pair of pants, or they will buy the competitors offerings made off shore, it sure is a dog eat dog situation
    Jenny Bannister on 06-Jul-10 04:02 PM

  • We at Digby's have a decent size retail/manufacuring business in Melbourne and we have no trouble producing locally a great product. Our fashion industry is no different to any other business today and in order to survive and prosper in needs a top product good business sense lots of hard work and an ability to navigate as the circumstances change in an over-populated market.Forget about the permanent markdowns by the department stores and the overseas invasion and the incompetent governments......just get on with it. Product will always win, in any economy; and the product should give you the numbers to have a viable business. Now, if you will excuse me, I'll get back to work.
    charlie digby on 06-Jul-10 02:47 PM

  • Good point Lou, but 'sell-able' quality often involves access to many different machine types and yes - skills that many designers don't have, or see the point in developing. Who is there to teach them these skills? Is it the role of the design schools to create good machinists?
    Alice Euphemia on 06-Jul-10 01:24 PM

  • I am a big supporter of locally made product, and I find it very sad that more and more labels are going off shore for there manufacturing, but local factories also need to meet minimums to pay wages and the man power put into making 7 pieces of one style is really tough. When there is only 7 pieces, why are these small up and coming labels not making these pieces themselves in there garages? That's how a lot of the bigger labels in Australia started out isn't it? Is there a lack of skill from designers here too??? Do newly trained designers not know the technical skills of sewing a garment?
    Lou on 06-Jul-10 01:07 PM

  • I work for a local Melbourne manufacturer, our factory of all places is also in the city. We specialise in shirts, and have only just started a womans line, which is Melbourne made but also using vintage fabrics from our archives, we are struggling to meet minimums in our own factory because retailers keep telling us that consumers don't care if it's made locally or not, and we can't beat the imported prices. Which one is it, they love locally made or not? Our factory does struggle to make the smaller quantities mainly because of the man hours put into it and paying the wages of our in-house machinists...
    Lady Phillips on 06-Jul-10 12:52 PM

  • We are a bespoke manufacturer of leather goods and struggle with designers who want to have a sample made and then place orders for only a few pieces. Someone needs to invest to bring a product to market but manufacturers can't afford to be the investors.
    Clint on 06-Jul-10 12:31 PM

  • sorry Alice, I should have mentioned that you actually champion the young designers, we need more shops like yours. Not alll cool shops are like you,You know i love what you do!!
    jenny bannister on 01-Jul-10 01:57 PM

  • hear hear Katie, you are so right. about the payment of your goods,Unfortunately, not all the cool shops know how to run a business, it takes some time to find a stockist, that you can trust and grow together with.I was lucky to find those shops,in my career, but I also lost about $1,000,000.00 in bad payers, including New York!
    jenny bannister on 01-Jul-10 11:44 AM

  • Poor boutiques! We're not all bad! Alice Euphemia believes strongly in helping to create a viable and skilled local industry in design and production. That's why for 13ys we have stocked quality aust made and designed clothing and jewwl. Our business needs to viable and we don't want to stock pieces available two doors down. Exclusivity is a not the only factor to consider. Having access to quality fabrics and local skill, where makers are prepared to work in small runs is crucial to the development of any industry. With the revived interest in dressmaking and the popularity of local production I feel we are on the cusp of a healthy industry. New knitwear manufacturers like f2 knitting are a great example. Here's to more!
    Alice Euphemia on 01-Jul-10 11:27 AM

  • Well done Jenny.. Even in the 6 years we have been sharing the wonders of local manufacturing and design I have seen such a drop in actually made product. The skills in Melbourne havebeen our jewel in the crown.. Teach the hands on manufacturing (and the skills to do it cost effectively.. ) we will keep an industry rather than just the theory of one. Surely it's a perfect to time to support such social enterprise as passionate design hungry consumers of fashion have money and will pay Within reason of course.
    Hidden Secrets Tours on 30-Jun-10 07:56 PM

  • Not only are these boutiques killing opportunity for designers, they are sending them broke. How is anyone supposed to make a living from selling 7 of one design? All of that work pattern making, grading, and developing to sell a minimum amount which might add up to a few hundred dollars. And that's even if they get paid at all within their agreement terms...
    Katie on 30-Jun-10 06:05 PM

  • Totally agree Jenny, our designers are sadly having exactly the same problem. Finding makers and also makers that can make at competitive price points in Australia and can come out early enough is proving quite a challenge for our clients.
    Phoebes Garland on 30-Jun-10 05:07 PM

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