The recession may not have been a technical eventually for Australia, but its global influence is still being felt. Consumers are still wary of ostentation, a mood being reflected on the catwalks and at the trade shows in Europe and the US. Australian-based trend forecaster Eryn Behan, director of newly established Melbourne consultancy Ginger Trend Consulting, says the coming spring/summer season in fibres and fabrics is a reflection of the still slightly depressed mood.
“Consumers are very conscious of their purchases and this is definitely reflected in clothing style and colours and embellishment,” Behan says. “Looks are very understated and subtle effects are key, whether it is an embellishment or a fabric print.”
According to Behan, the overall trend is not about strong statements through fabrics or prints, but making a splash with the trimmings. “A lot of this trend is being derived from the recession,” she says. “Statement items are in accessories, rather than garments, this season.”
Ginger Trend Consulting has recently been appointed as the exclusive distributor of the printed and online trend forecasting products for UK-based forecaster Mudpie. In addition to the trend books that the company publishes for designers, Mudpie has an online, subscription-based service that is updated every day. It is aimed at retailers, manufacturers, distributors, buyers and product developers.
Collecting information from its army of correspondents throughout the world, Behan says the online environment provides an immediate look at key fashions and trends and is now an essential part of the fashion business.
Fabrics and finishes
One of the most obvious trends in fabrics for spring/summer 2010 is bleached out or stressed denim, Behan says. “Colours are definitely not bright and vibrant – they are definitely toned down – but with metallic shimmers and finishes,” she says.
“Fabrics are softened and distressed. Checks and stripes and polka dots are again understated – they are faded, which is the modern interpretation of a traditional way that we would use fabrics like that.”
In addition to modern interpretations of traditional uses of fabrics, organics are still a very strong influence. This is not so much from consumer demand, which is reasonably strong, but is a result of the fashion industry being ahead of the pack, as always.
“I definitely think that consumers are more aware and conscious of the effect that non-organic fibres and fabrics have on the environment, especially in Australia. We are more of a leader here when it comes to being environmentally conscious and aware of things like that as opposed to other countries.”
Organics are on an upward trend, not just in terms of fabrics but the processes behind manufacturing them, Standardknit Fabrics’ marketing manager Carol Crawford says. “It’s sheers, it’s organics, it’s modals (for next year),” Crawford says. “Also important is environmentally sound dyes and processes.”
Another emerging trend is what Behan calls “intelligent” fabrics, an area particularly strong in the sportswear market. “When I say intelligent I mean things like water repellant fabrics. I’d also use the word to describe the details on sportswear such as multiple pockets and zips for comfort and movement.”
Colours and concepts
While violet, poppy red and turqouise could hardly be called understated, these rich shades are an emerging trend. Metallics and sheens are also reflected – pardon the pun – in terms of fabric treatments, she says. “There is understatement in traditional fabrics like tweed and herringbone and houndstooth, but this will become more sophisticated through coating and will give that appearance of a glittery or light varnish. The rework for the modern interpretation will be the understatement but also unexpected colourways that you don’t traditionally see with fabric finishes like that.”
Standardknit has not yet noticed a clear colour direction for next season, particularly in the booming swimwear market, but for spring/summer 2009, the company is seeing a stong, pink coral. “It’s always a striking colour for the summer season,” Crawford says.
Trims and tiers
The big trend is a studly one, Behan says. In keeping with the stressed denim look, embellishments will come from key detailings like studs. “Studs are very big, especially on denim, but again you are probably more inclined to see this on accessories such as shoes and bags and headbands.”
Trimmings will be more apparent on accessories, but if they are used on garments then, again, the look will be quite understated. “Fringeing is a big one, as well as studs. Fringeing derived from Native American influences is becoming quite popular and is also linked to the bohemian trend, and this is where tiers are coming in as well, for volume.”
Boys and girls
The understated theme will not discriminate between men’s and womenswear, with distressed denim in lighter shades an across-the -board feature, Behan says. Sheens are more likely to be female-friendly, but the trend towards traditional fabrics given a modern yet understated slant will be shared by both men and women. “Those traditional fabrics like houndstooth, tartan, plaid and herringbone – that is definitely both a male and a female trend.”