EACH edition Ragtrader talks to a previously featured business to chart its development in the intervening years. This week, it’s the turn of Melbourne designer Oscar Calvo.
Company Oscar Calvo
Owner Oscar Calvo
How many stores/wholesale accounts did you have when you started out? How many do you have now?
Originally, I had 30 stockists throughout Australia. I then decided to stop wholesaling and focus on opening my first store, which I did in March 2007. The store closed earlier this year due to the effects of the global recession. I’m now focused on relaunching the brand in September with an emphasis on basics. I will also have an interactive online store.
What were the key issues or challenges for your company back then? What are they now?
The biggest challenge I faced was going out on my own. As an independent operator, you are responsible for all areas of the business, from design to sales and marketing. You have no one to motivate you or pick up your shit when you hit a brick wall. Nothing has changed. Financing has also always been a challenge. The unpredictable nature of the fashion industry has prevented me from securing bank loans, yet I am obliged to invest significant capital for materials, manufacturing and marketing. The fees for models, showrooms and runway shows can cost me as much as $10,000 – $20,000 per season. This seems like a large amount but quite small when considering the amount that successful fashion designers spend (sometimes millions of dollars per season). That outlay doesn’t even count the cost of advertising or hiring public relations and business development staff – luxuries I can’t afford.
What was the/most significant development in the life of your label?
I have a few. Awards and fashion industry accolades – including Victorian finalist in the ‘Mercedes-Benz Start Up Program’, designer of the year at the ‘End Of Year Designer Showcase’ and opening my first store in 2007.
How many staff did you employ then? And now?
I contract staff such as pattern makers, sample machinists and makers but I’ve always been a one-man show. I’ve had to line my pockets by working for other brands as a contractor – as well as applying for government grants and benefits (such as NEIS) and loaning money from an amazing network support of family and friends.
What has been the worst experience?
It’s always difficult to launch a high-end brand when you are completely unknown. The hardest part is getting funding, cash flow and staying consistent in your vision, despite market attempts to make you compromise. Production not meeting deadlines is also stressful – I hate delivering late especially when it’s out of my control.
What was the range like back then? What is it like now?
My range has always been playful and incorporated a deliberate sparring of styles. The label can be best described as tailored streetwear, positioned at the top end of the market. It’s funky, directional fashion with attitude and quality.
Men’s fashion is generally moving to a leaner cut: shrunken single or two button tailored suit jackets with high-hip wool skinny trousers or pre-washed jeans; low V-neck knits showing the bare chest and inspired wool nerd knits in stripes.
Any other significant comments you’d like to make?
It seems like designers and artists everywhere struggle with similar challenges. Despite many obstacles along the road I am committed to working towards a viable and successful business.