Luxury fashion operators are among the first to feel a squeeze in discretionary spending.
Melinda Oliver discovers how Brisbane boutique Jean Brown Gallery is beating the odds.
Australian women can access the best international fashion at the click of a mouse, so co-owner of Jean Brown Gallery Amber Long ensures she is up to the minute with stock for her Brisbane stores.
“Australian clients are really global in their outlook and know what’s happening - and we respect that,” she says.
Rather than hold European collections back to suit local seasons, Long ensures they hit the shop floor at the same time as Parisian boutiques.
“Buying for the opposite seasons in a sub-tropical climate can be really challenging... but it is something we try to achieve,” she says.
Since launching the Jean Brown Gallery in early 2007, Long and husband Matthew have also launched Jean Brown Robe and The Tribune Brisbane. Each store is distinctive, but Long says the link is offering unique, quality product.
The original Jean Brown Gallery, named after her stylish grandmother, offers premium international handbag, footwear and accessories labels to a discerning clientele. Donning the shelves are styles from Alexander McQueen, Balenciaga, Chloe, Miu Miu, Yves Saint Laurent, Prada, Phillip Treacy and Marni, among other high profile brands.
New brands in stock for 2010 include French luxury label Celine, UK footwear label Chrissie Morris, UK designer brand Mulberry and Spanish leathergoods label Loewe.
“We also do invest more and more in Australian labels and that has been an opportunity to foster the development of original accessory design. We’ve brought in Rachael Ruddick handbags, Suzy O’Rourke millinery and more recently Tom Gunn, which is exciting for us as it is a local footwear label that is now going on to do a collaboration with Saba,” she says.
A key element to the store is a vintage precinct with a rotating archive of antique handbags dating back to the 17th century, which have been collected by Long over the years.
Jean Brown Robe has a similar philosophy of prestige, stocking apparel from international labels such as Phillip Lim and Acne. The racks are also laced with Australian designers including Kirrily Johnston, Willow and Melbourne brand Thurley.
“It is about a range of different labels, as we all invest across a wide range of price points as fashion consumers,” she says.
The Tribune Brisbane has a lofty, New York-inspired décor and caters to a slightly younger, edgier clientele. It stocks collections from emerging Queensland designers and sale stock from the international brands.
The recent global financial crisis did little to knock Long’s drive for luxury retailing, with Matthew’s background in finance ensuring the business was prepared for challenge.
“We had started to work towards a rationalisation of inventory levels, being more selective and targeted with the sort of pieces we were buying,” she says.
“We also expanded into other areas of inventory that we hadn’t touched on before, like ‘giftables’ – really unique pieces that were not necessarily available in the Australian market but pieces that would be associated with a trip to Jean Brown. A little present they could pick up and take home.”
She says an array of fashion books were also added to broaden the product variety and appeal.
The company has been proactive with online marketing and social networking, with a mix of e-newsletters, a blog, Facebook and Twitter used to connect with customers.
“When I go on buying trips I tend to update the blog on what we have seen and what we are doing. It is really about engaging the fashion consumers who are internet-savvy and who like to feel part of an online fashion community.”
Stock is also available to view online for mail order, which Long says is popular with regional Queensland clients.
“With our clients we do a lot through our Very Important Client programme, which is offered to clients who reach a certain level of spend. They are given access to certain sale items first and invitations to special events,” she says.
Long offers a long list of the joys of retailing, including discovering great new brands and customer satisfaction. However she acknowledges the challenges, such as managing large amounts of inventory with a small team.
“Contrary to what most people think there is a non-glamorous side to fashion and the travel that goes with that. The jet lag and not seeing the children for two to three weeks, unpacking boxes, getting your hands dirty - it’s part and parcel of being a small business manager. All the finances... it’s a big job.”