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Footwear designers will compete fiercely for buyer appeal at the Australian Shoe Fair. Melinda Oliver finds out how they intend to stand out from the crowd.

Following a challenging year in the footwear sector, exhibitors at the forthcoming Australian Shoe Fair will be hoping for a surge in buyer confidence to kickstart a brighter era. Held in Sydney from February 14 to 16, over 100 footwear exhibitors will be pushing their point of difference to ensure they get noticed and lock in their orders.

Run by Australian Exhibitions and Conferences and held at the Sydney Exhibition Centre in Darling Harbour, the event will showcase a spectrum of men’s, women’s and children’s footwear designs for summer 2010, as well as trans-seasonal styles.

Held in conjunction with the Fashion Exposed trade fair and the Bags and Accessories Fair, the shoe fair will feature dress shoes, evening styles, comfort labels, bridal footwear and accessories among other categories.

First-time exhibitors include women’s designer shoe brand Andrea & Joen and creative women’s footwear label Enth.

Established exhibitors including Birkenstock, Windsor Smith, Minx, Zoe Kratzman and Fujian footwear are among those scheduled to show. Here we speak to exhibitors from different sectors about the key trends and eye-catching styles they will bring to the floor.

A dominant category at the fair, women’s footwear will appear in endless shapes, styles, colours and materials. One inescapable trend will be metallics, which is proving a key look for the many brands on show.

Andrea & Joen co-director Andrea Tan says metallics such as light gold, silver and pewter are important to the fashion-forward label, as well as its more casual sister label Sunday Andrea & Joen. Significant looks will be cut-out sections on leather sandals and woven cording created with metallic leather on sandals and heels.

De Vrina and Moni Mollie national manager Diana Buttigieg will also present metallic shades in the two collections. For De Vrina, softer metallics will include champagne and silver, while for Moni Mollie stronger pewter, bronze and gold will be prominent. Buttigieg says a touch of bling is signature to the brands, with sequins, diamanté clusters and intricate beadwork embellishing high stilettos, platforms and flat sandals.

Jimmi Dexta director Carl Greco will show a handful of women’s labels including Urban Chic and J.D.C. Linia Donna. He says stilettos, platforms and sculptured heels will be key, along with gladiator heels with zips, carrying through from summer 2009/10.

“On heels and sandals, sequins and hardwear are important, such as studs, ornaments and diamantés,” he says.
Shoes Online Enterprises sales and product manager Natalie Ravalico is expecting buyers to seek value-adding elements to ensure shoes pop out on the shop floor. She will be showing labels Therapy and Just Because and agrees metallics, exposed zips and jewel embellishments will be key to the season. For Enth designer Trina Hoy, the focus will be on quality material and colour for summer 2010.

Her handmade range will feature a palette of red, silver, beige, white and black. Softer combinations such as lime and mauve against beige will also be introduced.

“I use sheepskin because the colours are truly brilliant and the feel is utterly luxurious,” says the Sydney designer.
Styles include flats, ballet slippers and moccasins, with attention paid to stitching, colour panel combinations and patent touches.

Also offering a softer colour alternative is Charlton Agencies, which will show labels Cinnamon and Emma Kate. Director Stephen Charlton says washed-out leathers in pink, taupe and green will be exhibited for a vintage touch. Low wedge styles, scalloped edging and interlaced leather sandals in multi-colours will also be offered.

Sapato Imports director Judy Westheimer says different leather treatments such as snakeskin and suede and lots of colour will set her labels apart. She will be showing international brands including Fly London and Not Rated and expects the mix of pointy and round toe heels, flats and bling will hold wide appeal.

Capturing adult styles for little feet has proven a winning formula for Kari Maitz, designer of children’s footwear label Minime. For summer 2010, the Sydney label will tap into the gladiator sandal trend for young girls and present European loafer looks for boys. Open-toe ankle boots and ballet slipper styles will also be offered.

Maitz says while trend is important to the label, comfort and quality are prime, with all styles handmade with leather. Also vital is ease of use, so the shoes are designed to slip on quickly, but also to stay securely on active young feet.
Due to requests from buyers and parents, the label will offer some adult sizes at the Australian Shoe Fair, in the same styles and colours as selected pieces from the children’s range.

Also expanding its range at the fair is Goulburn-based label Skeanie, which will boost its Junior collection to include three more sizes suitable for children up to five years old.

Designer Natasha Barber says classic styles are key to the brand, with deck shoes and classic loafers for boys and Mary Jane’s for girls important. The footwear is endorsed by the Australian Podiatry Association (NSW). Soft leather, flexible rubber soles and room to grow are important elements. “Young feet shouldn’t have restriction,” she says.

Key shades include patent red and silver, as well as traditional pink, blue, white and chocolate brown.
Red Bootie, designed by Cristina Maglio, is also set to be creative with colour for summer. The range will offer a lot of metallics, matte gold and silver.

“For boys, we have lots of wash-back leather, or combinations such as washed-back navy with orange, yellow or red highlights for a bit of fun,” says Maglio.

The Melbourne-based label will include printed canvas for boys and girls, adjustable elements and padded soles for support.

Similarly, Kelly Long Kidswear’s Kelly Long will present a multitude of styles for boys and girls under the Bebelite label. Velcro strap sandals, sneakers and patent Mary Jane’s will be offered, with mixed colours, comfort and support for small feet key features.

New men’s footwear label Pipal will offer suede soles and mixed fabric styles to stand out at the fair. Director Patrick Qian says suede soles provide an exclusive look at low cost, with benefits including a non-slip effect on carpet and shiny floors. The label, pitched at young to middle aged professional men, will also present shoes with combinations of elastic cloth and leather. For a casual look, black-washed denim mixed with leather will make a statement.

Shoes Online Enterprises product and sales manager Ross Phelan will also be determined to attract buyers with labels Uncut and One 4 the Road. Casual canvas plimsoles and crinkle or burnished leather office shoes will be key. “For leather, black and brown are always standard, but slate (dark grey) is a new fashion colour for the season,” he says.
Jimmi Dexta director Carl Greco will also be armed with casual canvas shoes for men.

“Colours include black, white, charcoal and sand, and for the more daring we have some bright splashes,” he says.
Greco will be presenting a mix of labels including Jimmi Dexta and J.D.C. Linia Uomo. He says for work, high shine looks and lace ups will make a resurgence. For weekend wear, suede dessert boots in tobacco, black, sand and grey will offer a new selling point.

Paul Carroll & Son managing director John Carroll says that comfort must equal style to snare buyers in the competitive comfort footwear market.

“There has been a huge change of focus in the past couple of years,” he says. “Labels are starting with fashion and making it comfortable, rather than comfortable, then trying to make it fashionable.”

The footwear supplier will be showing six labels at the fair, including walking shoes Padders and moulded footbed sandal brand Betula, from the Birkenstock stable. “We have European labels, so we're confident we are on track with colours and toning and shapes. We’ve got some animal prints, patents, metallics and embossed leathers,” he says.

Dreamwalker footwear designer Alan Hodgskin agrees fashionability is coming to the fore in the sector. “Women are dressing younger; so you have to put a younger aspect into what you make,” he says.

With a broad consumer target, Hodgskin offers contemporary, functional women’s shoes, which can be worn for work or events. To set his collection apart, the South Australia-based designer has added lace-up elements to his summer collection, in line with trends he spied in Europe. Metallic materials, cut-out shapes, small heels and wedges will all be included.

“You have to do your homework, make the range look fresh and you have to be commercial,” he says.

Similary, Charlton Agencies is striving for a point of difference with Groundhog, an eco-friendly comfort brand. Director Stephen Charlton says the label uses environmentally friendly materials such as cork and crepe rubber, as well as recycled packaging.

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