The jacket is set to shine on the shop floor for winter 2010 with agents reporting a surge in interest from boutique buyers, as Melinda Oliver reports.
Balmain fever is shivering through autumn/winter 2010, with the trend-setting influence of the French powerhouse evident in local buyers’ orders for the season ahead.
When the fashion forward label hit the catwalks with cutting-edge, sharp shouldered, heavily embellished blazers, it promoted the humble jacket from cold-day essential to stand-alone style statement.
As local fashion agents finalise womenswear orders, they say boutique buyers are hungry for jackets with a difference – to ensure customers splurge regardless of the tough financial times.
Agent Frankie Presser of I Heart Agency in Sydney says buyers are seeking blazers, cropped bikers, trench coats, leather or denim jackets. “Jackets seem to be a good investment and can become a staple wardrobe piece that crosses over many seasons,” she says.
Presser sells directional Australian labels including Dion Lee, Romance Was Born and Maurie & Eve. She says the market has been flooded with basic blazer styles, so buyers are looking towards independent designers for interesting, signature touches.
An example is Dion Lee’s cotton blazer with pleated and woven jersey panels, fitted jersey sleeves and double zips running up the back of each arm.
“It’s intricate and detailed in the way it’s cut and sewn, but the overall look and lines are so clean and classic, with a twist,” she says.
Presser says Maurie and Eve’s cropped blazer with a cut-out back and long chain detailing has sold well, as has Romance Was Born’s cropped jacket featuring a mix of denim and quirky prints.
Adelaide-based agent Alice Moorhouse agrees that buyers are focusing on jackets, with shoulder pads, unusual sleeve silhouettes, zips and Michael Jackson-inspired military detailing sparking their attention.
Moorhouse takes care of trend-oriented women’s labels such as Cooper Street, Bracewell and Lili.
She says some retailers are a bit concerned with how well padded shoulder jackets will sell, but do not want to miss the trend.
In addition, Moorhouse has noticed a resurgence in buyers seeking rock-star denim jeans to team up with blazers. She sells denim brands including True Religion, Paige Premium Denim and 7 For All Mankind and is finding styles with rips, studs, crystals, rouching and ladder tears are attracting strong sales.
Live Fashion agent Steven Edson says buyers are looking to the unique cut, folds and detailing of jackets by Australian label Friedrich Gray to offer a point of difference.
He says a sleek, black, wax-coated denim jacket with slimline sleeves sold well, as did a black leather draped coat with asymmetrical structure attracted orders, serving to counter heavily embellished looks from other brands.
The Sydney-based agency also sells street fashion brands Skinny Nelson, Cheap Monday and Current/Elliot, of which Edson says grungy ‘90s looks are winning over buyers. Repaired denim styles such as patchwork and fabric panels are popular, as are oversized woollen cashmere knits that embody the wearer.
Tulle Agency director Lisa Chedanne says embellished jackets with quilting, studs and buckles are key to orders, along with military styles. Lightweight, transeasonal options have also been well received.
Chedanne sells young women’s labels Lucette, Oscar the Third and her own brand Lilya to Queensland and NSW stores. She says customers from warmer regions are happy to order coats “if they are amazing – they have to be special.”
Frontline Fashion Marketing director Danielle Ferris says buyers are particularly interested in pearled-leather jackets this season, despite the fact she sells to warm-climate customers in Queensland.
“People want to see a definition between seasons and trends – they want a clear change (on the shop floor),” she says.
Ferris takes care of Australian labels including Moss & Spy, George and Sacha Drake. She says unique colour and print combinations on dresses are also selling well, as per previous seasons.
Splashes of hot pink, burnt orange, purple, blue and red have been combined with darker shades and neutral tones to retain a wintery feel.
MBA Fashion Marketing brand manager Kate Sullivan found buyers wanted jackets for layering along with dresses and tunic tops, over a body fitting piece.
The Sydney-based agent takes care of coordinate collections including Jump, La Gender, Resort Report, Gitane, Trent Resort and Black Apple.
She says functional knitwear is also proving strong, with natural fibres most popular. Details on knitwear such as ombre colours, rouching, cowl necks, cut-out necklines, buttons, textured or printed yarns and half-sleeve styles have boosted interest.
“Buyers are really looking for something that stands out and gives their customers a reason to buy – and can see value in their purchase, especially with the financial crisis in mind,” she says.