Papinelle is trialling a new way that could upend the clothing buttons market. Earlier this year, the Australian sleepwear brand partnered with biotech firm Uluu to help source 4,000 buttons made from seaweed.
Papinelle’s co-creative director Nicole Kelly says both her brand and the biotech are committed to using natural materials and responsible production, so it was a natural partnership.
The 4,000 buttons have been used across two garment styles – making up the brand’s turquoise gingham pyjama sets – with key decision makers involved across design, production and sustainability functions.
“For us, buttons are a perfect proof of a much larger concept – and ambition,” Kelly says. “While they may seem like a small component of clothing, buttons are everywhere and most are still made of plastic.”
It is estimated that 5 billion buttons for clothing are manufactured each year, with the output concentrated on across hubs in Asia – particularly China and India – accounting for over 60 per cent of global supply.
That is according to Market Reports World, which anticipates that the buttons for clothing market is worth around US$2.126 billion and is projected to hit US$2.92 billion by 2033.
Of those 5 billion buttons, 70 per cent are believed to be made of plastic, with metal buttons projected to be about 20 per cent and wood or natural buttons taking up the remaining 10 per cent.
Market Reports World also noted a shift towards sustainable materials. Recycled-plastic buttons constituted approximately 15 per cent of global supply in 2021 and are projected to reach over 25 per cent by 2025, supported by EU and North American regulations.
“Bio-based materials like vegetable ivory – once historically a key suit button material –are seeing renewed interest, showing a 12 per cent increase in annual production volumes between 2022 and 2024.”
Kelly says switching to a sustainable alternative on something as small as a button might feel like a minor change, but when multiplied across thousands of garments, the impact adds up very quickly.
“There aren’t many sustainable options like this out there, so this collaboration shows that through small changes with even the tiniest of details, the fashion industry (and its impact) can be completely reimagined,” Kelly says.
Uluu co-founder and co-CEO Dr Julia Reisser says the biotech’s buttons for Papinelle process seaweed to extract sugars. Those sugars are then fed to microbes in fermenters in a process that is a bit like brewing beer.
“The microbes naturally produce our plastic-like material - called ‘PHAs’ - inside their cells. We then extract the PHAs and turn them into pellets, which can replace plastic pellets in existing manufacturing equipment,” Dr Reisser explains.
The buttons and all other materials produced by Ullu are biodegradable. The biotech is also currently exploring other areas in fashion production, such as trims like zips and toggles, to packaging and fabrics. Dr Reisser confirms the company is also developing textiles that don’t release microplastics when they’re washed.
Dr Reisser says there is room for lots of different solutions to make fashion more sustainable. And both across luxury and mass-market.
“Luxury fashion is a great launchpad because it helps generate early awareness and desirability,” Dr Reisser says. “It sets trends and consumer expectations, and demonstrates what new materials can achieve in high-end, design-led collections.
“At the same time, mass-market adoption is essential. Our goal is to see our seaweed materials used widely in a diverse mix of products across multiple industries.”
For Papinelle, Kelly says the brand will always seek to find new ways to make sustainably – “whether that’s experimenting with new materials, designing with circularity in mind or teaming up with innovators like Uluu.”