A Perth footwear brand has developed a classic Derby shoe, with components made from mushrooms.
Make Good – founded by a podiatrist and a former global footwear executive – has developed what is believed to be the first classic Derby built with a certified biodegradable plant-based upper made from mycelium fibres, cellulose, natural latex and organic cotton.
The material is created with petrochemicals and is considered a lower-impact alternative to traditional leather and plastic-based synthetics.
Various studies indicate that around 23 billion shoes are produced annually, with 90 per cent of these ending up in landfill each year.
The initial version of the shoe – the Derby V1 – has a sole unit that is a 51 per cent natural rubber blend and will form part of the brand's upcoming recycling programme, setting the path towards a circular, minimal-trace Derby.
Studies also indicate that around 1.4 per cent of global emissions come from the footwear industry, with Make Good noting it is one of the least-scrutinised corners of the fashion industry.
The brand pointed out that conventional leather production is resource-intensive, involving high carbon emissions, heavy water use and toxic chemicals such as PFAS and chromium. These substances have been characterised in environmental health research for their impact on tannery workers and nearby communities, where effluent can contaminate local waterways, agricultural soils and groundwater.
Make Good founder Paul Griffin, who has been a podiatrist for nearly 30 years and has worked as a consultant to the footwear industry, wanted to change this narrative.
"Footwear waste is a blind spot in fashion," Griffin said.
"People invest in boots and Derbys that last, but the reality is that almost all of them eventually end up in landfill. Many are produced with chemicals we now know have long-term environmental consequences.
“We wanted to create something designed with the end in mind, something that feels timeless but is built for a different kind of future."
Working with John Prescott, former ASICS global board director who has led development programmes for Nike, Adidas and Puma, the Make Good team spent three and a half years refining a plant-based construction.
According to Make Good, the upper's interlocking mycelium fibre network provides natural strength and breathability. It is produced through closed-loop manufacturing where water is recycled, and hazardous chemicals are avoided.
"The biomimicry aspect was what drew me in," Griffin said. "Nature already creates incredible fibre structures. Our role is to design with those systems so materials can return safely to the earth at the end of life. This Derby is an early milestone on our path towards footwear that leaves minimal trace."
The Make Good Derby has a promotional launch price of $239 AUD and is sold on the brand’s website.