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Australian biomaterials firm Nanollose has reached a new chapter in its lab-grown fibre production, in a bid to scale lab-grown textile production locally and internationally. 

The Western Australian based firm is set to procure an upgraded batch of microbial cellulose in the coming months for the next phase of pilot production of Nullarbor fibres. 

These fibres can then be used in the creation of textiles, with the company already having piloted commercial production with the likes of Lee Mathews and Orta Anadolu, a major supplier to global brands including Levi’s and H&M. 

The next phase will be run in collaboration with Birla Cellulose, a subsidiary of global manufacturing conglomerate Grasim Industries.

Since commencing its long-term co-development process with Birla Cellulose, Nanollose has completed three successful pilot production runs at Birla’s manufacturing facility, which now total over a tonne of fibre. This includes 800 kilograms of Nullarbor-20 and 150 kilograms of Nullarbor-30 for the textiles market, and 110 kilograms of Nufolium-20 for non-woven fabric applications like wipes.

Quantities of these fibres have since been sent to several collaborators in the global manufacturing supply chain and have been converted into yarns, fabrics, and garments for testing and evaluation. 

Nanollose recently completed a successful production run of a batch of 70 small blankets incorporating Nullarbor-20 fibre as part of a collaboration with Tasmanian-based Waverley Mills.

Since completion, the blankets, alongside a Lee Mathews-designed top made of Nullarbor fibre, are currently on display in the National Gallery of Victoria’s exhibition entitled "Making Good: Redesigning the Everyday". 

In similar news, several items made from Nanollose’s proprietary materials will be on display from next week at the “Circular in the Square” event in Raine Square, Perth, which runs for most fo September. These items include a dress made of Nullarbor denim, from Nanollose’s collaboration with Orta, a Lee Mathews-designed Nullarbor top, and an outfit made from Nanollose’s animal and plastic free ‘vegan leather’. 

Nanollose is targeting commercial scale for its sustainable fabric technology in the fashion and textiles industry. The next stage of its progress will involve rigorous risk-weighted analysis of various options for commercial scaling, and associated feasibility studies, with a key focus on delivering first revenue and value accretive partnership or licencing opportunities for its shareholders. 

Nanollose is publicly listed on the ASX.

The latest production phase follows procurement from Hainan Guangyu Biological (HGB), Nanollose’s supply partner, as well as a period of close consultation with the group to refine and optimise the current supply chain. 

This has led to HGB modifying the initial washing and treatment of microbial cellulose to produce material that is immediately usable in the lyocell process at Birla, India, without the need for further pre-processing. Production is expected to complete in late October or early November. 

The batch will then be shipped to Birla Cellulose’s production facility in India for its transition into Nullarbor fibres.

Nanollose CEO and MD Andrew Moullin said the firm’s most recent trip to China provided an opportunity to meet the team at HGB and see its pilot run in progress. 

“Pleasingly, the visit has generated several new lines of enquiry and potential avenues to advance to commercial scale,” Moullin said. “Work to advance these negotiations and other manufacturing processes is ongoing, which will provide a good foundation for planned discussions in India with Birla and other counterparties. 

“We are confident that these will further illuminate commercial pathways for Nanollose.” 

Nanollose executive chairman, Dr Wayne Best, welcomed the upgraded batch of microbial cellulose and its collaboration with HGB.

“As we continually refine the technology to enable the production of larger batches, these product improvements mark an important development in connection with our objective to expand the manufacturing process to achieve commercial scale,” Dr Best said. 

“We look forward to providing more updates to highlight how these improvements enhance the next pilot production run with Birla Cellulose in the coming months.”

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