The boy[s and girls] from Oz

Fiscal fears made for a sparser than usual attendance at New York Fashion Week (NYFW) on the part of Aussie designers, but for those intrepid enough to make the trip, the rewards were there for the taking, writes Belinda Smart.

From September 5 to 12, fashion's opinion makers descended on the Big Apple to sample the latest offerings for spring 2009 from the world's leading fashion labels. Among these a handful of Australian brands - including Perth label Aurelio Costarella, Sydney labels Alice McCall and Cristina Nitopi and Melbourne label Toni Maticevski - braved jet lag and an atmosphere of crisis to showcase their wares.

However, if Aurelio Costarella's PR and sales manager Paul O'Connor is any indication, faint-heartedness is not an advisable response to financial turmoil. He said interest in the brand was at an all time high this year.

"We have sold the collection in New York for the past five seasons and participated on the schedule with runway shows for three. This season is the first time we showed at [hero venue] Bryant Park in the tents. Because we have a strong PR presence and sales showroom in New York over the past two years, the interest in the brand has grown considerably. The media and buyer turnout was fantastic, with capacity crowd filling the Salon. We have maintained all international accounts and picked up new accounts. It was very worthwhile and rewarding. Also with the Australian dollar still strong against the US dollar it meant that this year it didn't cost as much to participate."

O'Connor did concede that economic slowdown had meant "a noticeable decline" in Australians showing. "We were the only Australian based label showing in the tents this season. The US retail market is hesitant in its buying at present". However NYFW is not just about US interest, he says.

"It isn't just about American buyers for us, it's a platform to the world market. We experienced a lot of new international buyers taking interest in the brand." Such exposure was vital for a brand with Aurelio Costarella's small home market and brand profile. 

"Our product sits in the higher end making it difficult for us to grow the brand on a domestic level. Showing at NYFW is our platform to not only the US market - one of the most lucrative markets for luxury brands - but also a broader global market. Showing in New York, and having sales and PR agents based there, has enabled us to reach retailers, celebrities and media that would not otherwise have access to our product. For [parent company] Costarella Design Ltd it's very much a brand building exercise, raising awareness and turning the brand into an international luxury brand."

The Aurelio Costarella show garnered positive reviews as well as an interview with British Vogue and a marked increase in sales. "We have picked up new stockists in Los Angeles, Spain, Japan and Kuwait. We also launched our shoe line which has had a tremendous response." For Alice McCall, this was the first taste of NYFW, confirmed brand manager Garreth Wills.

"Alice McCall has had a small but growing presence in the US for the past three seasons and the show was the next logical step in the process of building our business there. The show went very well, we had a lot of support from companies such as Mac and Sunsilk. We also had a very talented team including Maryam Malakpour as our stylist, who styles Heidi Klum and The Rolling Stones, and Mathias Van Hoof as make up artist, who has done countless covers for Vogue and and i-D magazine."

Wills said the show garnered solid attendance and was well received. "We have a strong PR agency in New York and Alice has great contacts, so we were able to wrangle a good mix of VIP's, press and buyers. We also signed on a new sales showroom in New York and Los Angeles this season, so on the back of that, and the show, we have picked up several new accounts including Henri Bendel in New York." It appears other Aussies fared just as well.

Cristina Nitopi - who presented her luxury fashion collection in the Majestic Ballroom of the Westin Times Square Hotel, described her show as "very successful" and well worth the investment. Meanwhile Toni Maticevski - showing his self-named label for the fourth season in New York - took a different approach from many, showing off site. "I prefer it, [because] I can control the atmosphere and vibe behind the show."

Although Maticevski said he'd noticed buyers were "buying safer" this year, business for his brand was steady and growing every season. In terms of the importance of NYFW itself, he was succinct. "You're so asking the wrong person about fashion week, I avoid it as much as I can. My focus is on my brand and product and client."

Whether designers choose a high or low profile approach, regular appearances in New York are vital, says Alice McCall's Garreth Wills. "We recognise the key to showing in any market is the continued presence to create a cumulative effect. A single show doesn't kick start the brand, but continued and sustained activity and presence in the right magazines will bring success."

And for those commentators still treating Australian fashion's success in the US as a novelty, Aurelio Costarella's Paul O'Connor has news.  "Australian fashion is increasingly sought after in international markets. We are garnering a strong reputation for interesting and innovative work. I would even go as far as to say the term 'Australian fashion' is becoming increasingly irrelevant. Being an Australian showing at New York Fashion Week is no longer news. They, in other words the US media and buyers, don't care anymore. Good design is what captures and maintains attention. Location is no longer relevant. The fact is you don't have to be based in major fashion hub to produce beautiful work and to have your work recognised on an international platform."

By Belinda Smart