When I get into my Levis

Every so often, it seems, classic brands must reinvent themselves to maintain the rage. A jeans retailer tells me that Levis recently went through this process. With Levis it involved putting the broom through the range and hoicking out some apparently surplus staff at the same time.

Think Levis and you think 501, the original miners' jeans with button fly and made from the US Cone Mills denim. While those specs have persisted since the introduction of the jean in American antiquity, the cut has seen many updates as people have changed shape and fashion has exerted some influence. Now, I believe, the cut has gone right back to 1947. The price, of course, hasn't. If you want to wear your piece of history you pay around $130 retail.

You can still be a Levis wearer for less money. Red Tab is the bread and butter sub-brand at various retail prices under $100. The problem Levis faces is the generational stretch of the market. Groovy old blokes still wear them, which makes it difficult to reassure the young that they are not raiding the wardrobes of their fathers or grandfathers.

This is not Levis fault; it was bound to happen to a brand like that. Once you convince a couple of generations to become fiercely loyal, the following generations don't want to identify with the brand. I'll bet a survey among under 30 males would show little knowledge of Levis 501 - yet it was the equivalent of the Ford GTHO in its day. Levis is rising to the challenge of sharpening the youth end of the brand and its method and results will make a very interesting study for those interested in marketing.

FM means forward motion

Brian Cronin, a long term survivor of making garments in Australia, wants out. With his company still financially healthy, and with ongoing business more or less assured, Brian's reasons are simply that he's had enough of the stress. At 57, he's sick of worrying about the money cycle that grows more perilous by the year as garment retailers face the economic downturn - a sentiment shared by many. The company does branded business with boutiques and unbranded with Noni B and Daymart.

Brian's been making dresses, suits, co-ordinates and items for women of indeterminate age for most of his life. These days the price range has moved up from budget to moderate. He formed FM Fashions Pty Ltd 21 years ago as a reincarnation of Fashion Modes that had a 52-year history with his father.

FM Fashions should be lifted out in its entirety and placed in a time capsule as a perfect working model of a 20th century (not 21st) Australian clothing company. Fabric is sourced mainly from overseas suppliers but from there, everything is home grown. Design and sampling are done in-house, as is production cutting. Sewing is contracted to makers still working in NSW.

Dispatch and stock is run from a neat warehouse beneath the first floor showroom, offices and sample department. Brian does a lot of the styling himself and handles NSW sales. There are agents for other Australian states.
If you started the same type of company as FM today your first trip would be to China to find factories and then you'd set about outsourcing everything else. But the question is, would you be better off? 'Progress' does not necessarily bring higher profits or more pleasure.

FM won't be bringing out a next winter range but will fulfil summer orders for its two labels: Lyndal and FM Limited. After that, Brian hopes he can sell the labels to a good home where his long serving, loyal staff may also find ongoing employment. He wants to stay in the industry and is open to suggestions.

Can-can Kandy

My friend, Kandy Russo, has just returned from a fashion inspection trip to Paris. Kandy is a professional stylist working mostly out of Bondi Junction and needs to be up on the latest to advise her clients.

The serious fashion trend gatherer for the popular market can find must-see retailers in most major cities, but in Paris the styling is more focused because consumers are more discerning. Kandy did a thumbnail call on four important stores and came away with the following:

Kookai (remember it is a French company) - great for knitwear and sheers. H & M - gone junky and cheap. Mango - doing an amazing job, especially in jackets, knitwear and stylish corporate. Zara - going back to basics and has lost excitement.

I had the same feeling about Zara earlier this year when I went into stores in London and Hong Kong. There was a feeling of caution and safety which was at odds with the risks it used to take - and bring off. I now wonder how well Zara would succeed in Australia, logistic and seasonal problems aside.

By Fraser McEwing