Stepping Out

Belinda Smart talks to a current and former fashion student from the RMIT University City Campus Bachelor of Design degree course about their sustainable career ambitions.

Georgia Clark - currently in her third year on the course - learned a lot while scoping out her sustainability project last semester. Titled '16pcecollect08' (pictured) the 16 piece collection was built around a shoulder pad that provided a base area for multiple garment components to be fastened and worn, making it an interactive and interchangeable outfit.

Considered areas of exploration included inclusivity, modularity, minimal fabric wastage during the cutting process and zero laundering methods, she explains, adding that the focus on sustainability has broadened the scope of where she would like to take her career. As demand for expertise in sustainability rises in future, she also sees it as an invaluable feather in her cap regardless of which direction she takes.

One area of interest is functional womenswear that is made to last, she says, although over the shorter term she's "not too picky" where she finds herself immediately after graduating, as long as she gets a chance to hone valuable industry skills and experience. She is also considering enrolling for a fourth, optional year that will offer industry experience.

"The RMIT course has given me an understanding of all aspects of the fashion industry from childrenswear to tailoring and womenswear. One thing I really love about the course is the research aspect of it. You get given a brief and can take it in any direction you want. Recently I ended up spending a day at this fantastic dye house in Ballarat [regional Victoria] and learning about what they're doing to make it more environmentally friendly. I spent hours talking to and learning from this fellow who'd been in the industry for 35 years."

Clark has also enjoyed the combination of teamwork and solo projects offered by the course - "you feel like you're a part of a community and there's nothing more stimulating than getting together to brainstorm an idea" - as well as frequent interface with industry.

"The third year offers a component called 'Fashion Industry Practice' and we've had the opportunity to meet a broad range of industry practitioners. They might be designers but we also recently had a stylist from L'Oréal Melbourne Fashion Festival come in and talk to us, as well as a representative from Sneaker Freaker Magazine."

Electives are also available to third year students, with millinery, patternmaking and languages among those on offer. Clark is studying Italian, more for her own hidden agenda than any desire for gelato-fuelled Mediterranean holidays.

"I'm almost embarrassed to admit it because it's such a case of shooting for the stars, but there's this one designer that I really admire. His name is Antonio Marras and he works for Kenzo. I'd love to work for him one day. Of course it's a total pipe dream, but then again why not? You've got to think big."

Study and work should be the last things on Monika Lowe's mind. Having graduated from Melbourne's RMIT University last year, she speaks to Ragtrader long distance from a travelling stint in Europe. But if the level of professionalism with which she does so is not usually associated with free-spirited camper van adventures, that's probably because Lowe isn't planning to be in holiday mode for long.

"I have two internships lined up with labels in the UK that have a sustainable focus within their supply chains and I also plan to find employment within a larger company. Travelling is so inspiring and I love looking at various brands. I get really excited when I stumble upon a store or label that is really onto it and has the whole package just right. There are some fantastic labels in the UK and some are also doing really good things in terms of sustainability."

Having fully immersed herself in the sustainability component of the RMIT course, Lowe says her studies also gave her a love of applying practical knowledge to her work. "It is fantastic for example when talking to fabric wholesalers and being able to articulate what sort of fabric and weights you are after.

RMIT also provided me with strong design skills that I think are invaluable. If you want to be a good designer you have to understand that you are designing for something or someone and fashion, although glamorous, is a business."
The course also enabled Lowe to develop "a high level of professionalism", she says, "whether it is in the presentation of my work or just everyday skills such as the need to be very organised". 

Such assets will stand her in good stead when she returns from overseas next June to enter full time work. Aside from earning a crust, she is also considering further part time study at post graduate level, possibly in marketing, while longer term she dreams of a senior role in a design team and beyond.

"In 10 years I hope to be the creative director of my own label, with a strong focus on local production, good quality and sustainable practices. This may involve carbon neutral factories or low impact fibres. I would like [to run] a label where people can be educated on what they are buying so that sustainability can be approached from a 'longevity' point of view. Then instead of achieving status through a faddish look or brand name, real luxury can be attained through the quality of the garment." In other words, no more fast fashion.

"I would love to one day see customers being educated about what they are buying, just so they know that for example acrylic pills or wool shrinks; they may then be able to make more informed choices about the $50 dollar top over the $10 top. Even people I know say they would rather buy five tops and wear them once than buy one expensive top. I just don't see how this can continue."

By Belinda Smart