Hat tricks

With racing season, a store revamp and prestigious invitations from overseas clamouring for his time, the race shows no sign of slowing for Paris Kyne, writes Belinda Smart.

As Paris Kyne braces himself for the thunderous gallop of Melbourne females thronging to his Toorak boutique in search of the perfect hat, he must reflect - if there is time for such indulgences - that the glamour of it all sits in wondrous contrast to his roots.

Born Michael Francis Kyne, the middle of five children, the master milliner began his career with a less than stellar academic record, followed by a series of what he describes as "mind numbing" jobs, ranging from forklift truck operator to produce worker.

But then, in 1988, fate came knocking in the form of a job ad in the local paper for a blocker at Melbourne Hats, then located in Melbourne's rag trade heartland of Collingwood.

Now Kyne talks poetically about blocking - "every type of fibre and every type of weave moves differently. You are required to know your fibre and weave breakdown to manipulate the hood into the required shape. This takes years of practice but the end result is stunning". But back then he was only dimly aware the role would involve a dash more colour than his previous employment.

Nevertheless a light had been switched on - and two decades later it's still ablaze. Kyne now supplies unique headwear to one of the few markets in the world where a race outfit - in particular the manner in which it is "capped off" - often requires a bigger dollar outlay than Christmas.

This year he marked his twentieth anniversary with the completion of renovations to the Paris Kyne emporium, including a makeover of store furnishings and a spruced up entrance complete with revivified front door and new exterior awnings, signage and planting. Hat labels, hat box stickers and ribbons were not exempt from a brand overhaul designed to kick off the racing season with the pizzazz it deserves.

Which brings us to the hats. With over 700 blocks in his collection, it's not hard to imagine the breadth of Kyne's output. Keeping abreast of overseas trends, while also maintaining his own handwriting, he says he is looking forward to a season of maximum show. "This year less is not more, more is more. We are using more textured fabrics, more elaborate hat pins and saying the word 'more' more often."

The main trend is texture, with straws woven in luxurious styles and featuring intricate worked-in patterns.
"Vintage Italian straw braids woven in the '40s and patterned straw cloth woven in Switzerland in the '60s are strong themes. The feel of the work has never been more important. Headpieces have become more wing-like this season. With straw cloth and visca straw, hoods have been back-stitched pleated for support, then placed on to either a small pill box or an Alice band to look as if they are flying."

Australian native shrub the Waratah is another inspiration, with the plant's signature petals replicated using straw braid or crinoline (referred to in the trade as 'crin') and its myriad stamens reproduced in fine feathers. Other styles include the Toy Topper, this season following an art nouveau line; and the Disc Coolie, made from vintage straw braids, stitched into a disc, then trimmed with a feather.

The plumage doesn't stop there; feathers will be "huge" this season, Kyne says. "Expect to see bright turquoise, shocking pink, red and salmon pink ostrich feathers at very rakish angles. Lady Amhurst pheasant tails will also be shown jutting out at wild angles then curling back onto themselves. Brilliantly dyed emu feathers are starting to flow into the market place as the dying process to them is now much kinder. They now have a more natural feel, flow and look."

With plans for 2009 including an exhibition titled 'Wings of Desire' as part of renowned US racing festival the Kentucky Derby as well as the full restoration of his 724 piece hat block collection, the concept of a single 'season' of activity must seem like a foolish dream to Kyne.

But before disappearing into the pre-racing skirmish, he does have time for some parting hat advice. Customers in search of a new hat or headpiece should always take their outfit with them, armed if possible with the planned shoes and bag, he says. Avoiding the temptation to "just plonk a headpiece on" they should never attend a racing event without first visiting a good hairdresser. Meanwhile, a hat with a brim broader than the wearer's shoulders is a no-no, although there are exceptions to this rule.

"If you have an overly large personality - by all means wear a hat to match, but make sure you are wearing it and not the other way around." In this regard Kyne himself - who is not known for being a wallflower - is arguably a master. His final counsel, directed at hat-sceptics everywhere, contains a hidden dare.  "If you believe you can never find a hat to suit you, see a professional milliner." And with that he vanishes into a brightly coloured miasma of crinoline, feathers and straw to prepare for the onslaught.

By Belinda Smart