What lies underneath

Innovation and differentiation are increasingly crucial for success in the crowded lingerie market. And as lingerie continues to become more fashion focused consumers have more choice than ever before. Samantha Docherty reports.

The growing fashion appeal of lingerie has changed drastically over the years. How you dress underneath has become a reflection of how you dress on top.

Where once basic beige and comfy cotton knickers were the staples of every underwear drawer; today women's lingerie choices have evolved to fashionable co-ordinates where colour and style are as vital as fit and finish.

Today's fashions help by accommodating revealing underwear. Years ago a visible bra strap was considered bad taste, now they are often designed to be seen, decorated in pretty laces, bows and delicate fake jewels. A trend revisited recently with the Sex and The City movie, exposed bra straps as part of an outfit are one of the biggest fashion statements of the past 10 years.

Sue Dunmore, general manager of design and product development at the Bendon Group says women are choosing their lingerie as a fashion item and buying new colour palettes with the changing seasons.

"Women [have] become more aware of lingerie's role as the foundation for their overall look. Through increased PR and awareness we see this trend continuing and lingerie becoming more fashionable and adventurous, even transitioning into outerwear as the lines blur." The market is also being driven by fibre manufacturers serving the intimates and swim industries, who are some of the most innovative in all the apparel sectors.

The constant tweaking of fibre technology makes it more functional and resilient resulting in underwear that lasts longer and lace that is buttery soft against the skin.  At the Bendon Group Dunmore notes the developments that have made the biggest impact on lingerie have actually been small ongoing step-changes in fabric quality. "Lightweight fabrics and micro fibres are now stronger than ever.

This allows us to change the structure of the final garment. Particularly in full cup design we are now able to produce bras with a delicate appearance that are still as strong and supportive as their 'heavy duty' counterparts of days gone by."
The use of fabrics with a fine appearance, great handle, performance and lightness, have improved many aspects of lingerie design for The Berlei Group.

Head of design Sam Gebser says garments can be lighter in appearance, yet still have a high performance.
"Comfort factors have been enhanced by the improved handle of these fabrics. For example the use of moisture wicking fabrics in sports bras and well-being fabrics such as those with Aloe Vera content give the promise of benefits to the skin. Developments in the use of antibacterial finishes have increased product freshness and wearers comfort."

The advent of modern technologies and fabrics have also assisted in designing innovative products such as laser-cut seamless bras and moulded T-shirt bras. At The Berlei Group developments in this area have improved the wearers comfort according to Gebser.

"Laser and ultrasonic cutting deliver precision and the ability to apply intricate patterning to fabrics. We can now offer the consumer a wide variety of moulded T-shirt bras in different thicknesses and across all sizes. Advances in technology mean that bra cups can be sculpted to provide uplift, low necklines, boost, natural silhouettes and minimising effects."
One of the only lingerie companies that purely focuses on the larger cup market, the Eveden Group launched Freya Active in June.

Offering the first sports bra that goes to an H Cup, Eveden has seen a large demand for moulded and seam free lingerie from both the Australian and New Zealand market. Eveden Group Australia and New Zealand general manager Janine Fisk says moulded bras are very important - seen as a woman's staple garment for a 'non visible' undergarment.

"Women want the support and shape these styles offer, without adding additional bulk to their bust. We are thrilled to see a renewed passion in the lingerie market over the past few years. Women are more aware of their bodies, and they are no longer willing to compromise on the fit of their bra. Women have realised that if you start with a great fitting foundation garment then every outfit you put on over this will just make you look and feel even more amazing."

Tapping into the resurgence of lingerie, manufacturers are launching new lines and giving older products a makeover more frequently. The Bendon Group is constantly revisiting tried and tested lines says Dunmore. "Improving them, adding pieces to collections to ensure they stay abreast of fashion and creating new colour ways.

"But that's just the existing styles!  On average Bendon will launch over 300 completely new styles per year across our three main brands Fayreform, Bendon and Elle Macpherson Intimates."

Expanding her brand's portfolio Collette Dinnigan has diversified the company's product offering by tapping into a lower priced market. Making her lingerie accessible to all women, a key feature of the Wild Hearts line for Target is the extensive size range - a first for Collette Dinnigan in Australia.

The line is designed to make women feel they can experience the exclusiveness of one of her garments. It has also brought Target a new level of customer who would perhaps not normally shop there.
Target intimates business manager Karen Russell says the Wild Hearts range has been a hit with new and regular customers.

"We are currently collaborating with Collette on future collections. The Designers for Target program has certainly improved our fashionability in consumer's eyes and introduced new customers to Target. We have revolutionised the 'democratisation of fashion' in the Australian marketplace through this program." A revolution in lingerie, women are more mindful of the advantages of a correct fitting bra.

There has been much publicity about the fact that two out of three women are wearing the incorrect bra size.
Aided by television shows like Trinny and Susannah women are becoming increasingly aware of the benefits and enhancements that correct fitting bras can do for their shape and appearance.

In the past the size and cup offer of most brands stopped at a D cup according to Fisk. This has resulted in approximately 80 per cent of women wearing the incorrect size for their shape and frame.

"We are now seeing an influx of brands that have realised that this is a large component of the market and they have not been catering to these ladies needs." A bra that fits properly is essential adds Dunmore.

"Especially for larger cup sizes where fit can have a huge influence on comfort and confidence. Whenever we speak to our consumers they consistently tell us their expectations are actually fairly simple. Namely, that the bra is fit for purpose. They need their bras to fit them impeccably, to be comfortable and faultless."

Constantly publicising through the media and its retail outlets, the Bendon Group prides itself on fitting customers into the best style and size to suit their bust shape. "We'd like to think that by communicating a consistent fitting message that we're gradually getting through to women. However we still see ill fitting bras every day, so we're under no illusion that there's a long way to go!"

By Samantha Docherty