Johnston flies Australian flag across the Tasman

Sydney designer Kirrily Johnston had credited her strong affinity with Kiwi design as the reason she agreed to become the first Australian label to stage a runway show at Air New Zealand Fashion Week (ANZFW).

Johnston said she had been in the process of planning a sales trip to New Zealand when she was invited to participate in the September 16 to 21 event. "It was a coincidence [and] it all seemed like a good fit as we would already be there. It's also a great honour to be the first Australian designer to show."

Johnston said she felt an affinity with Kiwi design and frequently had customers coming into her store and asking whether her label was from New Zealand. "I think my Melbourne background mixed with my love for layering and being a little bit edgy creates an aesthetic which fits in well there. I feel really connected to New Zealand. Australasia is working for us so that's where I want to be right now."

While Australian labels, including Brigid McLaughlin, have previously had a presence at the six-day event, up until this year none have ever ventured onto the runway.

An attempt by ANZFW organisers to work with government trade body Austrade to open up a dedicated Australian show space at last year's event fell over at the eleventh hour after they were unable to attract enough interest from Australian labels.

Johnston said she is not sure why other Australian fashion businesses had not taken up the invitation to participate this year. "I can only speak for myself so for us as a company Hong Kong, Japan and Indonesia are our strongest export markets. A lot of these buyers attend NZ fashion weeks so the combination of that and the strong local interest in our brand from both buyers and media, is why we have decided to show. Plus it's way closer and there is no jet lag which helps a lot."

ANZFW director Pieter Stewart said it made good sense for Australian designers wanting to expand their business to show their winter collections in New Zealand. "They will no doubt capitalise on the Northern Hemisphere buyers and press that attend, but also on getting leverage in the New Zealand market which, while [it is] not as big as Australia, can still be quite considerable for some of them."

The provisional list of designers showing this year was late last month. Fifty designers have put their hands up to take part including established labels, Trelise Cooper, Zambesi and Nom D and relative new comers Stolen Girlfriends Club, Stitch Ministry and Michael Pattison. Making a comeback this year is World. Designer Francis Hooper said the earlier September date meant he is able to show in New Zealand while still having time to meet with clients in Paris later in the month.

"We haven't shown for four years because we have been selling in Europe and the time tables clashed but now because of the earlier date we were able to consider it. We are really excited to show back in our own country again as part of the old guard of New Zealand fashion and anyone who knows us knows we love nothing more than putting on a great show," Hooper said.

By Nicole Curin-Birch