In the bag

Australians can't shake their plastic bag addiction. Samantha Docherty asks how strong is consumer sentiment to move away from plastic bags and how are retailers tackling this eco issue?

Australia's environmental lobbyists' efforts to ban plastic bags and promote reusable bags are gaining momentum. But changing the habits of generations of shoppers and retailers may be an uphill battle.

Last year shoppers used an extra 700 million HDPE (supermarket) plastic bags - taking the total to more than four billion a year. Add to this half a billion thicker LDPE (fashion store) plastic bags and that's a whole lot of plastic.

Federal Environment Minister Peter Garrett pledged to phase out plastic shopping bags by January 1, 2009; But Australia's environment ministers recently failed to agree on a national scheme to rid the country of its addiction.

Cost is making it hard for businesses to give up plastic. Heavy LDPE plastic bags used widely in the rag trade are approximately 50 per cent cheaper than plain paper bags, according to Pac Trading managing director Cynthia Xin.
Wattle Accessories managing director David White also believes it's a matter of economics.

"[For] large retailers and department stores who sell a wide variety of products at various cost points it's not cost effective to place a low cost item into a costly paper bag. The total sale might only be $5.00 but an entry level paper bag should cost between $0.25 to $0.50 (depending on size and volume). A boutique custom-made shopping bag usually costs $0.50 to $0.90. As a percentage of the sale it's just too high."

The most durable, re-usage and biodegradable options are cotton, calico or hessian bags adds White but these are also expensive. "We're working closely with offshore factories to develop these bags to a price point [that] falls within tight retailer's budgets."

After mining, fashion is the second 'dirtiest' industry in the world says Pickly Pear founder Dora Nikols.
Assisting the fashion industry to become environmentally and socially responsible, Nickols says packaging is a huge concern for the environment.

"I believe the Australian fashion industry really needs to consider packaging options to coincide with people's environmental concerns. Packaging is an extension of not only the brand but its values. The Australian fashion industry needs to show concern and commitment to the environment."

"In the past consumers only cared about price and quality" adds Nikols. "But today they also care about how [retailers] package products and how [they] are working to protect our fragile environment. If the fashion industry continues to hand out plastic bags and glossy carry-bags then they will be perceived as 'environmental criminals'.

A past offender, Sportsgirl introduced an organic cotton range last August in its first step towards providing environmentally responsible options.

The 'Green is the New Black' campaign utilised 100 per cent recycled paper carry-bags to package the range.
"We received a very positive response from our customers following the launch of the Organic Collection" says Sportsgirl public relations and events manager Jade Roberts.

"It highlighted just how front of mind environmental issues are to our [customers]." Switching over its main carry-bags to plastic made from degradable materials two years ago, Roberts adds environmental issues are definitely something Sportsgirl will continue to explore moving forward.

Melbourne fashion brand Gorman is one of the few retailers well on its way to achieving sustainability. It has reduced the use of garment packaging by 90 per cent and switched to recycled, unbleached and undyed packaging.

Keeping it 'green and serene' Gorman has employed an environmental consultant to advise on the company's local and offshore impact and is working with suppliers "that are also doing their thing for the environment".

Australian paper packaging manufacturer Paper-Pak is encouraging retailers to "go green". Marketing manager Jane Downs says the company has been inundated with enquiries from current plastic users wanting to know more about other packaging options available to them. "The effect on the environment has fast become the most significant consideration when choosing a packaging product" says Downs.

"Increasing awareness in the market place by consumers about environmental issues coupled with pressure from the government to offer environmentally sound packaging solutions has heavily impacted the branding strategies of many major local and global brands. We have found not only are consumers incredibly conscious of the environment (more so now than ever before) they are also seeking product that is Australian made from Australian fibres. This then reduces the overall carbon footprint of the product as it's not imported on a vessel from China or the like."

New Directions Packaging general manager Mohan Nair says at the end of the day money talks so his customers are not really seeking Australian made carrier bags. "The industry is not that insistent yet on Australian made. They do realise that any bags sourced or made in Australia would be at least two to three times the cost of an equivalent bag produced say in China."

White admits his customers are also more concerned about the unit price rather than the manufacturing origin.
"Paper is of course the cheapest alternative to plastic bags [but] there has been a large push towards "re-usable" non woven fabric bags. Demand from leading fashion houses has grown rapidly. From 2004 our sales have increased enormously each year."

Due to increased demand the cost of these products has dramatically reduced adds White.
"The added benefit of multiple-use by the end consumer leading to high visibility and brand recognition also makes it a more attractive alternative."

Xin concurs the eco friendly non-woven bags are popular. "Demand has more the tripled over the last three years. About 30 per cent of this is from the fashion retail sector."

Currently also the standout option for New Directions Packaging, Nair adds this is despite the bags being made from the same raw materials as plastic bags (petroleum) and taking a million years to break down.

"Demand for eco friendly bags has increased significantly over the last two to three years. Usually used by the middle to lower end of the fashion retail sector [they are] also used predominantly as a promotional giveaway or value added item in most instances. The high end fashion boutiques tend to steer clear of them."

Founder of Planet Ark and organiser of the National Plastic Bag Campaign Jon Dee points out environmentally non-woven bags are far more sound than plastic.

"They can be used for years, reducing the transport of plastic bags. They will not become wind blown and damage the sea, environment and its inhabitants and they reduce landfill. At eastern creek landfill they have four people employed fulltime to just pick up plastic bags."

For Dee his preference for the fashion industry is that they all make a change to paper bags made in Australia.
"Even the laminated styles are environmentally way ahead of LDPE plastic bags.

Fashion is about strong looks, bright colours and brands can print crisp logos on paper bags. They can represent the brand better. They look classier and that reflects well on the brand/store and they won't end up chocking a whale or a turtle. If [retailers] are serious about the environment [they] should make the switch to paper."

Dee says the fashion industry is the one industry that can make a difference. "It has a strong influence on other industries and society. It's an industry that cares about how it looks and so it should be using high quality paper bags rather than cheaper nastier looking plastic bags."

 By Samantha Docherty