The feminine embrace

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 It aligns itself with Scanlan & Theodore, yet boasts a female fan base spread among the diverse Australasian, Middle Eastern and South East Asian fashion sets. So what is it about Moss and Spy that has such universal appeal? Tracey Porter reports.

It would not be an overstatement to describe designer Lia Tsimos as an anti-fashionista. As a mother she frequently commits the cardinal sin of being seen with child in tow while as a tailor she often ruffles feathers when she admits she doesn't design for women who are "into trends". And for this, the Moss and Spy founder makes no apologies.

Having originally launched her label in 2004 following her return from London, the Sydney-born designer has built a successful business offering precisely what her customer base demands - the unexpected. A philosophy that now applies to all areas of the business.

"I decided that after years of working as I designer on other brands, I was ready to start something of my own. Having a young baby I realised I needed to take control of my destiny. I could also see there was nothing in the market for women like me who are not into fashion trends as such but are always looking for a point of difference and a creative edge," Tsimos states.

Having identified a gap in the Australian market for brands boasting the style and elegance of European labels, Tsimos' first collection was, she claims, "very precise". Featuring a black and ivory colour palette made up of silks and laces to make it "very feminine, striking and quite dramatic", the label hit an instant rapport with the market attracting in excess of 100 stockists in just its first season.

Since then Tsimos and her team have worked tirelessly to diversify the business, throwing eveningwear, casualwear and knitwear alongside its classic pieces in an attempt to cater for her diverse client base.
While the aesthetic of the label may have changed in the ensuing years, its choice of fabrications remains a key component.

"In four years the label has moved to a higher-end market. We are one of a small number of Australian brands that produce most of our garments in Australia and we have a commitment to continuing that. We work with the best fabric suppliers and makers so that our end product is of the highest standards in both fit and finish. Moss and Spy quality and fabrications are of upmost success to our success and our customers expect that when they invest in our brand," Tsimos says.

Aligning itself along other high-profile brands such as Collette Dinnigan and double-barrelled labels Ginger and Smart and Scanlan and Theodore, the international side of the label has also found early success. In fact such was the early success of its export strategy, international wholesale accounts now representative one fifth of Moss & Spy's total revenue.

Tsimos admits taking a leap of faith into an unknown market was a huge move for the brand. However ensuring the market was thoroughly researched while also planning for all eventualities helped it clear the early hurdles, she says.

"Being in Australia we were so far away so unless you know a country really well you are very much reliant on either an agent or spending a lot of time and trips yourself researching. Finding a great representative for your brand is vital because they have the knowledge to put your brand in the right stores and align it with alike brands. As a company it has been quite fluid for us so far as quite early on we aligned ourself with a very good New Zealand agent and our existing international [buyers] come to us in Sydney."

Now boasting wholesale accounts across New Zealand, Bahrain, Jakarta and Singapore, Tsimos believes she has moved the brand's infrastructure to the point it can now take on the international market confidently.  Tsimos says her next phase of growth for the label will be to focus on Asia and the Middle East.

"And then once we develop and understand better those markets, we will consider the United Kingdom and the US. Our plans are well-considered and focussed - each market has its own set of needs and differences and we want to nurture that for long term success."

By Tracey Porter

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