On the crest

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Historically worn by teens and hard core boarders, surfwear has undergone its own form of seachange. Still in sync with its traditional customer it now boasts a new wave of tech-savvy, art and music-inspired fans, as Samantha Docherty discovered.

If you believe retailer Jeff Johnson, surfwear is infinately more edgy than in days past.
Situated in Sydney's north shore, Superswell's surfwear customers are today much more educated and savvy on many different levels says Johnson.

"Music and art are a much bigger influence on their lives. The salty bleached haired surfer hangin at the beach is still there, but [they] are spending a lot more time working, downloading and partying than just bumming around the beach. Their fashion needs are evolving. "Surfwear is merging with fashion more and more 'surfartmusicwear' is the future and the kids are already on it."

Recently launching a new range catered to the lifestyle/streetwear market, Ocean and Earth is tapping into the shift in surfwear, offering styles that can be worn from work to weekend.

Selling to countries such as Canada, where there is no surf, Ocean and Earth's international CEO Paul Munten says surfwear has developed a street lifestyle look that overseas customers want.

"A lot of people are wearing lifestyle fashion now, not just surf. Surfing has its image but that's [only] one certain demographic. Designs are becoming a lot more edgy than six to seven years ago. People buy a product for design and appeal - your [brand] name associated with it is a plus."

Adding the rise in office casual dress is also bringing in new customers, Munten says there is a changing culture within large global companies.

"[Employees] don't necessarily have to wear a suit and tie to go to a business meeting anymore. This is definitely helping things along with sales."

Noting that surfers are increasingly difficult to pigeonhole, Connor Brown, sales and marketing manager at Kuta Lines says so too are the products they demand.

"They will most likely live a well rounded lifestyle which may require clothes suitable for the beach and the boardroom in one day. As trends and styles change surfwear companies are at the forefront of that change on a global scale, often developing on emerging trends without the structure and rigidity inherent to most clothing sectors. This has created an energy that can take many forms and can be transferred from a quality pair of purpose built boardshorts to a stylish business shirt with the careful placement of an identifiable logo."

Seeing Rip Curl's range of surfwear progressively grow since 1980 (the range originally was just T-shirts and boardshorts), Rip Curl national marketing manager Nick Russell says the brand has evolved largely as a consequence of demand from a maturing market.

With the number of Rip Curl's non surfing customers dramatically increasing over the past several years (60 to 70 per cent of guys and 90 per cent women), Russell says when it comes to casual work attire customers want to be able to wear a brand at work that they also wear out on a Saturday night.

"Casual work attire has changed a lot. [Today] we are able to wear a nice pair of shorts or casual jeans. The increase in people wearing casual work attire has positively affected Rip Curl's sales."

Billabong general manager sales and marketing Andrew Flitton agrees. He says this casual approach has definitely contributed to the progression of boardsport attire.

"T-shirts, shorts, and open-toe footwear have been worn in places you would never previously have thought acceptable. While there will always be that customer purchasing their beach basics we are definitely enjoying a more fashion savvy customer."

Adjusting their offering to be more design conscious, surfwear brands are not solely designing boardshorts and slogan T-shirts anymore.

Presenting a point of difference with their designs, diverse colours, imaginative prints, quality material and detailed tailored designs are just a sample of what's now on offer for both adults and kids.

Customers want styles that are different and unique, not mass market, according to Stan Kovros, owner of Sydney childrenswear stores Bonza Brats.

"In the past 10 years parents are tending to dress their children more sophisticated. Surfwear brands can't just [provide] T-shirts with the surfwear labels branding printed all over them. They need to offer great colours and interesting prints. It's about being creative and not just plastering a brand name on a T-shirt, which is not creative in our market."

Agreeing today's young parents have grown up more brand-conscious, Kovros feels today they are also more fashion-conscious.

"When we introduce a new brand they will buy it even if they haven't heard of them if the styles are right and the designer has a feel for what is happening in fashion. I don't think it's true [customers] will just buy for the brand name. It still has to hit the mark on style and fit."

Quality is also a big issue, which comes with better brands, according to Kovros. "Kids (especially toddlers) may only fit into their clothes for six to 12 months but it has to last and they are usually washed every second day."

Customers are also looking for children's clothing that reflects the style they want their kids to appreciate, says Kovros.
"Trying to develop the children's taste, it's all about education."

Buying into the idea of a healthy lifestyle through surf and beach culture, Johnson says it makes sense parents want their kids to reflect these ideals.

"The surf brands spend many millions of marketing dollars projecting this exciting image. [Parents] are buying into the healthy cool image projected by surfwear. Add to this the general high quality of the goods manufactured by the surf brands, it offers most parents great value for money, as their kids are genuinely stoked to wear the fashion, and [are] willing to wear it for a long time." 

Happy to see parents still excited about Billabong's product and seeing it continue on with their children, Flitton says everyone likes to see their kids looking cool so this market has a lot of potential. "It's the eight to 14-year-olds that we are really seeing the opportunity in."

By Samantha Docherty

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