Storm in a G cup

Bra sizing in Australia is creeping up the alphabet. Samantha Docherty asks what changes the industry is making to cater this growing market.

The tide is turning for plus size lingerie. Previously neglected by retailers and manufacturers, demand for sexy, supportive fuller busted bras is on the up.

Traditionally designed for functionality and support, manufacturers are enhancing their ranges with feminine, sexy styles up to G and J cups.

Available through advancements in fabric technology, many fabric suppliers are producing light-weight sheer fabrics and delicate embroidery which offers the stability and support required for larger cup size development.

Looking back at what was available in larger size ranges even five years ago, Triumph's national sales manager (department stores) Karen Ashley says it is very different from what is being offered today.

"Many years ago a sheer fabric with a pretty print would not have been able to provide the support that a 16DD lady would need. We now have the ability to incorporate these gorgeous fabrics into bras and still offer support and comfort - which at the end of the day is still a very high priority for these women. Triumph is investing considerable effort into developing this side of the lingerie market - as evidenced by the launch of our 'Beautiful' range this year and increased number of styles for the fuller figure - as the demand is certainly there and growing."

Contributing education to the increase in demand for larger cup and bras sizes, Lisa Medhurst, owner of larger size lingerie retailer Lisa's Lacies says F and G cups are the most popular when it comes to bras and for lingerie size 22 to 30.

"Over the past 18 months demand has grown but I don't believe it's [because] everyone that comes through our doors has grown a cup size or two. Most of the population wears the wrong size bra. I remember years ago ladies would come in and we would explain that they were not actually a D or DD cup fitting, they were E, F or G. They would not believe us. Now it's a matter of accepting it - in most cases anyway."

Adding that ladies want colour, comfort, quality and of course great support, Medhurst says a style that makes the customer feel good in lingerie just like anyone else would is also very important.

Selling fashionable and feminine lingerie up to an L cup, Karen Edbrook established her store 16 years ago as a result of her own desperation in finding attractive well-fitting underwear in larger sizes.

"I'm an 18J and spent years trying to find bras that would make me feel comfortable and feminine. Eventually I opened my own store and realised there were lots of other women out there in the same situation."

Proprietor of Brisbane-based lingerie business Big Girls Don't Cry Anymore, Edbrook now also wholesales.
"The products are going down extremely well with the larger sized market, [which] has previously been starved of elegant, fashionable lingerie.

October and November 2007 were our highest grossing months in 16 years by about 20 per cent. The market isn't being neglected the products have always been there. It's getting the shops to put the garments into their store which is the problem, they won't take the risk to do it. A lot of stores don't have the time on their hands and it's not cost effect for some of these stores to fit plus sizes. It can take a lot longer and most of the time only one person is running the store."

Edbrook, who advises retailers considering entering this market to do their research, listen to customers, then source out the products which are readily available, says there is definitely a market in every town it is just how you approach it.
"Our research has found that over the past six months, especially around school formal time, there is a great demand for more size eight to 10 F to G cups in strapless and feminine bras. Every year more and more young full cup customers are coming in."

Joining the booming bust trend, Myer is asking some of its suppliers to produce larger sizes for the department chain. Myer lingerie buyer Jordana Morrison says plus size lingerie is a big focus for her department.

"We are really noticing the trend towards bigger sizes [so] we are working with [the suppliers] to get what we need. They are now really changing their offering of plus sizes, and new brands and sub brands are introducing larger cup sizes. We now go up to a J cup in a couple of styles each season and all stores carry a G cup."

Adding that plus size lingerie has been a growing business for Myer over the past few years, Morrison says it's becoming standard for bras to come in a G cup.

"I guess it's due to the way bodies are changing and also perhaps because when you get fitted properly you tend to have a bigger cup size than you realised."

Agreeing there was not a great selection in terms of fashion styles a couple of years ago, Morrison says beige, black, pink and white was really all that was available if you were above a DD cup.

"Elle Macpherson Intimates in some styles now goes up to an E cup, for a designer brand this is a big deal. Calvin Klein is going to introduce a DD cup next summer which is huge for them."

With several fashion lingerie labels, including Berlei, Bendon, Masquerade and Simone Perele, now available up to a G cup, others including Fayreform, Goddess and Le Mystère go all the way up to a J cup.

"Panache's range is from a six to 18 D to K cups", adds Edbrook. "While our Elila ranges, from 14 to 32 B to L cups, have fashionable colours and young styles."

Trialing size eight up to a G cup in one of Triumph's SS08 Beautiful ranges (most styles are available in sizes 10-18DD to G cup), Ashley says this is due to retailer and customer feedback.

"This is exactly the market Beautiful has been designed for. We will see if there is indeed demand for this size to make it a viable inclusion in future ranges."

Targeting a younger customer and offering selected styles up to a J cup, UK label Freya is now available at Myer as of last month.

"It's different to anything else we've been seeing" says Morrison. "For us we see this category as not just large sizes, there are a lot of smaller girls with large bust sizes. Freya offers them bright, young, fun designs. The range is expensive (retailing at $84.95) but it is a great product."

Price can be a contributing factor for many manufacturers and retailers choosing to not produce or sell elegant larger size lingerie. Pushing up production costs, the componentry of a larger bra can often be more expensive due to wider straps, extra linings and more fabric.

There will also be more time spent in development of the product, according to Ashley, as the support factor has to be considered.  "Customers need to take all these points into account", adds Morrison.
"Once you get past an F cup a lot more construction and engineering needs to happen so that's why customers can expect to pay more."

By Samantha Docherty