Skin Deep

Increased product awareness, growing knowledge of skin cancer and a more active ageing population has boosted demand for chlorine resistant swimwear in Australia. But can it last the distance? Samantha Docherty investigates.

Noticing an increase in enquires and sales for chlorine-resistant swimwear, manufacturers and retailers say people are becoming more aware of the technologies available in textiles and the performance benefits they offer. Especially when it comes to quality and longer lasting garments. 

Eclipse Textiles marketing and product development designer Vanessa Kirk says increasing demand from consumers has fuelled the growth in heat and chlorine-resistant fabrications.

"There are now a number of chlorine-resistant fabrics on the market compared to five years ago. Chlorine resistance can be classed as 100 per cent chlorine-proof and can have a longer lasting quality compared to a basic conventional elastane."

Supported by research by swimwear giant Speedo, some chlorine resistant fibres provide 50+ sun protection and last up to 20 times longer than conventional elastane. This means they will not deteriorate, become brittle and break when exposed to heat and chlorine - unlike spandex or lycra.

Kirk argues Eclipse's own Dow Xla range is the first-ever inherently chlorine-proof stretch fibre durable enough to last through 1000 hours of chlorine exposure.

She also cites the introduction of Xtralife lycra, a new elastane on the market which offers up to 180 hours of chlorine resistance and Carvico Prime Technology  - which offers up to four and a half times more chlorine resistant than standard elastane - as further proof of available technologies.

Producing Sea Jewels' entire Sunskins Australia children's range in chlorine-resistant fabric for this reason, owner Julie Wiggins says adult sales have increased marketedly in recent times as mums buy product for their children and then for themselves solely to test the swimwear's life span.

"Sales of adults chlorine-resistant rash shirts have increased and ladies who swim for health reasons will buy chlorine-resistant due to longer lasting sun protection," Wiggins says.

Speedo general manager Rob Davies says when he came to Australia eight years ago chlorine resistant swimwear was not widely promoted at the time as retailers thought it would reduce swimwear sales.

"In 2000 ten per cent of Speedo's swimwear range was chlorine-resistant. In 2001 we called [the chlorine-resistant line] Endurance and pushed awareness of it with in-store point of sale. Now over 95 per cent is Endurance."

Working closely with fabric supplier Stretchtex to develop a better feel and fit on par with a nylon/lycra blend, Davies says Speedo today offers up to 400 styles of swimwear. Of these only one style per gender is nylon/lycra with the balance Endurance.

Initially more expensive to produce due to low fabric runs, Davies says Endurance is now at a comparable price due to higher volume. "Factories are now used to working with [chlorine-resistant fabrics]." But its not just labels themselves enjoying the boom.

Producing sun protective and chlorine-resistant swimwear fabrics, Stretchtex chlorine-resistant orders have increased by 50 per cent over the past five years, while its Lycra business has diminished by the same amount.
Stretchtex sales manager Raymond Fuchs says the company has developed the stretch of chlorine resistant fabric by more than 45 per cent in recent times.

"Chlorine resistant textiles used to stretch to 50 per cent. Now they stretch to 85 even 100 per cent. [They] are a growing market for us."

One of the early problems encountered with early issue chlorine-resistant swimming costumes has been the fact they offered less stretch than elastane blends, resulting in a poorer fit.

Swimwear entrepreneur Sue Rice, who has been designing, making and selling swimwear in Australia for more than 20 years, also admits to finding it a "fit nightmare" when she first began buying poly-chloroban. 

"As I bought the quality seemed to change. But over the past five years it's stabilised and now I have the confidence to develop designs regularly. If I, as a designer, have the confidence in a fabric, then I will be enthusiastic about it to the sales staff who in turn will enthuse to the customer who eventually will start to accept it. It's just a matter of getting used to another fabric."

Finding it costs about the same to produce as an elastane blend, Rice argues most of demand comes when the customer finds out the options available. "They are thrilled to learn they can buy a swimsuit which won't perish," Rice says.

But it seems not everyone believes chlorine-resistant is the way forward with the success of chloroban meaning less sales for retailers.

Predominantly produced for swimming in pools - not lazing around the beach, chlorine resistant textiles are generally not used for bikinis because "it's not fashion happy", according to one Australian swimwear manufacturer who asked to remain anonymous.

"Chlorine-resistant swimwear can be a hindrance for retailers. It lasts longer so customers don't buy their swimwear as often. But at the same time swimwear won't last as long if made of Lycra so the retailer can miss out on repeat business due to it not lasting very long. Elastane serves the retailer where as chloroban serves the customer," the manufacturer claims.

Offering a three-piece in chlorine resistant next season due to customer demand, Wiggins says most, if not all, the chlorine-resistant styles available by retailers have been specifically designed for exercise rather than fashion.

Selling a line of chlorine resistant tankinis and one-pieces with soft cups as part of Sea Jewels Swimwear's Viva line, the range has not had underwire support in cup sizes until now..

"The three-piece swimsuit specifically provides bust and tummy support which consists of an underwire bra. We have only made it in Lycra/elastane in the past due to chlorine-resistant fabric having a limited range of prints and it's very expensive."

Printing chlorine resistant swimwear for Flamingo Sands, April Marie Swimwear and Belinda Fairbanks, Bravo Print's managing director Denny Sebeck, prefers to print on all types of swimwear with direct digital printing as it means there are no problems with the print washing out.

"Dye sublimation is cheaper as it's only a two step process where the print sits on top off the fabric - but it's not absorbed. Direct digital printing is a more expensive four step process, but it's more chlorine and heat-resistant because during the steaming process the ink is absorbed into the fabric."

Adding that when adapting a design for shrinkage there is not much difference between chloroban and elastane, Sebeck says over time heat does affect Lycra dramatically.

"The heat press during dye sublimation goes up to 200 degrees which is basically the maximum Lycra can take. Direct digital is done at 100 degrees so this also helps to prolong the life of the fabric."

Pointing out that 100 per cent chlorine proof PBT yarn or performance elastane in general, vary in price depending on the yarn quality and performance benefits they create; Kirk says the type of yarn performance elastanes are knitted with, and fabric construction, also contribute to the cost of a fabric. 

"In general this doesn't affect sales as the customer is aware of the performance factors they are getting."

By Samantha Docherty