A timely trim

Want to know the key trims for next season and beyond? Samantha Docherty asks the experts.

The autumn/winter 2007/08 European runway season saw a lot of ruffled feathers - both on and off the catwalk.
Used as a hem underlay on evening dresses at Louis Vuitton, as trim on knitwear, silk blouses and dresses at Sportmax or elaborately stitched into corsets by Alexander McQueen, feathers - along with plumage and quills - were one of the most popular trims used by the big guns showing for next season.

Tessuti Fabrics  co-director Colette Guanta says while the trend has not yet been felt as keenly among the Australian fashion set, feathers are increasingly being used as garnish on evening and after five wear.

"We are seeing lace with feathers and beaded silk georgette with feather trim. Ranges of textiles I've seen have had feather trim on them, but mainly for eveningwear and we are also seeing bridal fabric with feathers."
Adding good feather trims don't come cheaply, Guanta says sometimes customers will buy lace or feathers as a trim as it is less expensive than using it for an entire garment.

Naming quarantine issues as a main reason for feather suppliers increasing their prices, Photios Bros' owner David Photios, says quarantine has definitely become stricter over the past few years and the shortage of certain types of feathers can make delivery times longer.

The oldest wholesaler of feathers and other fashion accessories in Australia, Photios Bros' has seen an increase in feather sales with the growing trend.

"Feathers have definitely picked up with our clothing manufacturing customers," says Photios. "Our feather sales have probably doubled over the past two months and we are selling a lot of ostrich feathers by the metre."

Combating rising costs and import issues, many manufacturers are ordering imitation feathers as an alternative.
Experiencing strict import and export controls on feathers, E&M Greenfield cannot guarantee safe import of feathers into Australia.

Company director Anthony Greenfield says the wholesale textile supplier has a quarantine problem with feathers and cannot promote them safely. Unable to get around import difficulties, Greenfield says the [current] option is fake or imitation feathers which are not of the same quality as the real ones.

Dealing with years of strict importation laws and mountains of government paperwork when starting her business feather.com.au five years ago; director Narelle Steinwede now dubs her company the "largest supplier" of feathers in Australia.

"It took years of business time and money to get through red tape [but] we now hold a commercial import licence."
Identifying ostrich and coque as the most popular types of feathers with apparel manufacturers currently, Steinwede says designers are using feathers in all facets of trimming fashion pieces.

So what should customers be looking for when sourcing good quality feathers?

"A reliable, high quality authorised company that works fully with the rules and regulations of the Australian Government", says Steinwede.

Adding trims and accessories should always come from a reliable and trusted source, M.Recht Accessories' sales manager Laura Mangiavillano says customers should be testing products for quality before they proceed to production.
"Checking the strength, colour fastness and durability during the sampling process is important [when using trimmings]."

Fashion Buttons spokesperson Christine Guthrie says a reputable dyeing service is a must to get the right colour match the first time.

"Our customers mainly choose their colours through the Pantone selection and fabric swatches [as] the colour options are endless. Products such as interlining, zips and elastic add detail to garments. Although not often features, the quality of these basics goes a long way in defining a brand's presence."

Noticing a lot of customers buying from Italy or Germany as opposed to China, Amanda Powers, sales rep for trimmings manufacturer Travlon, says apparel manufacturers feel the quality of trims such as horn and buttons are inferior in China.

"But I really don't think they would know the difference. Saying that though, metal in Italy has a lot better finish to it and lace from Europe, especially the UK, is better quality."

A key trend again for summer and next winter, metallic is even appearing on lace.
Popular at the moment in eveningwear, Guanta says a couple of seasons ago she couldn't sell a thing if it had metallic in it.

"But now it will sell for day or night. We are even selling a metallic broderie anglaise."

Also seeing a move towards metal products and trims, Mangiavillano says the current trend affecting fashion is the use of metal applications on garments such as stud fasteners, d-rings, sliders and metal zips.

Merging metallic with lining, Charles Parsons' apparel fabrics general manager Paul Wilson says his company's jacquard, bemberg twill and taffeta linings are all in metallic.

Menswear is also into metal. Producing a hard wear kind of look reminiscent of G-Star, Powers says menswear labels are using a lot of metal trims.

"Metallics are still around, as are earthy trims such as covered eyelet buttons due to manufacturers wanting less plastic on garments. There is also still a lot of lace but it's more understated and subtle. A lot of people at the moment have been asking for cluny laces as they have been fashionable in Europe and China. For winter big buttons and chunky styles are popular along with shank buttons on coats."

Also receiving requests for cluny cotton lace, Wilson says he has had enquiries from smaller manufacturers for broderie, sequin, appliqué and wider cotton laces up to 112cm wide.

"With bridal, there is a move towards diamante buckles and brooches and beaded motifs. A lot of this for us has been driven by European fashion and trends, especially from Greece and Italy. Customers are also requesting raglan shape shoulder pads to give an '80s look."

Big bold buttons with texture and shock colour in ridged or cupped styles have been favourites at Fashion Buttons due to the current '80s trend.

Adding that buttons play up the feminine highlights of the summer staple - the dress, Guthrie says light colours are in favour at the moment.

"Second summer is showing rhinestone details on neck and waistlines which carries through with the feminine look. Covered belts, buttons and buckles are still proving to be popular and many [dress] buttons we sell have laser-engraved detail or unusual textured finishes. In contrast, high-waisted shorts, jeans and smocks are accentuated by fewer buttons but in bolder, flat shapes or feature engraved metal rivets in colours from antique copper to gunmetal."

Jewelled trims make more of a statement for autumn/winter 2007/08, according to Guanta, with big jewels and plaque-like stones replacing sequins as the sparkles of choice.

The look is for the integrated jeweled effects, almost like built in jewellery, which emphasizes design details and creates a sense of pattern play within the silhouette. Working with tone-on-tone colourations, cut crystals and metallic mosaic treatments are in key colours of silver and gold, clear crystals and black lacquered effects.