Cool runnings

The market for moisture management fabrics is set to grow as apparel manufacturers shift their attention to the high-performance end of the sector. Samantha Docherty reports.

Performance apparel represents one of the fastest growing sectors of the international textile and clothing industry.
Fuelled by the emergence of new fibres, fabrics and innovative process technologies, the market is also being boosted by changes in consumer lifestyles. Spending more time enjoying leisure activities such as running, cycling, hiking, mountaineering, snowboarding and skiing, customers are after more high-tech fabrics to keep them warm, dry and comfortable.

Performance Apparel Markets (a quarterly report produced by UK analysis company Textiles Intelligence), recently went so far as to state that moisture management is one of the key performance criteria in today's apparel industry. 

With the ability to transport moisture away from the skin to the garment's outer surface, moisture management textiles prevent perspiration from remaining next to the skin which can cause chaffing and damage. Excess moisture may also cause the garment to become heavy, and in hot conditions, trapped moisture may heat up and lead to fatigue or diminished performance. In cold conditions, trapped moisture can drop the body's temperature and cause chilling and hypothermia.

Andrew Powell, national marketing manager for New Zealand outdoor clothing and equipment retailer Bivouac Outdoor, says consumers have ever increasing expectations regarding performance clothing - especially at the higher end of the market.

"Pushing their clothing, equipment and themselves to the limit, alpinists, ice climbers, skiers, snowboarders etc are looking for a shell outer layer that will breath as their work-rate increases but still needs to be completely waterproof and windproof. On top of this, the weight of the garment and its ability to not restrict movement are also very important."

Adding customers today are more knowledgeable than ever about the technical aspects of a garment, Peter Nimmo, director of Incline Sports Pty Ltd (exclusive licensee and distributor of Descente), says he meets consumers every day that are demanding more versatile garments that cover a greater variety of their activities.

"Gone are the days of the old cotton T-shirt doing everything. As our climates are heating up so is the demand for technically advanced fabrics. From the elite athlete fielding a medal at the Olympics to the mum walking the dog, consumers are looking for comfortable, affordable, durable hard working apparel."

As sport and active outdoor wear manufacturers strive to improve the functionality of their collections, Nimmo feels developments will see lighter, more versatile fabrics with enhanced feel and forming properties.

"Not only catering extremely well in moisture movement, [they will also have the] ability to support, form and style, while holding colour and overall enhance the usability of the fabric."

Generally, the most effective moisture management fabrics are high-tech synthetics made from polyamide or polyester micro-fibres. Lightweight, they are capable of transporting moisture efficiently, and dry relatively quickly.

Enhancing moisture management capabilities by using certain finishing processes such as varying the fabric or fibre construction or using a blend of fibre types, these new processes can also increase prices which deter from the mass market potential of such fabrics.

Simon Alsop, store manager for Mountain Equipment on Sydney's Kent Street, says customers generally aren't prepared to pay top dollar.

"Some customers will always buy the latest and greatest but generally customers will buy cheaper alternatives as most can't tell the difference."

Catering to both travel and extreme sports markets, Alsop says his customers definitely place an importance on the performance of their outdoor wear, along with durability and fit, but they don't always know what they're asking for.
"We get a lot of people asking for Gore-Tex, but in actual fact they just want a waterproof breathable jacket. In the end a well designed jacket with an [environment] appropriate hood is just as important as the fabric."

Adding that Mont is the biggest brand in terms of importance in his store - especially as it's an Australian company, Alsop says Mont has a good reputation among people who are serious about [their outdoor activities].
"It's not for someone just after a fashion garment, its hard wearing and it lasts."

The only local producers of moisture management fabric, Mont makes high end gear including base, mid and outer layers for serious outdoor users.

Manufacturing Hydronaute - a fabric for outer layer garments, the waterproof breathable membrane is available in four alternatives - standard, ultimate lightweight, all conditions waterproof breathable and insulation specific for down clothing and sleeping bags.

Concurring with Powell that top end consumers are more conscious of garment performance, Mont's sales manager Mike Radajewski says lightweight, comfort and ability to wick moisture are the key things customers look for in moisture management garments.

Adding that in some conditions Hydronaute works better than Gore-Tex, Alsop says Hydronaute breathes from the inside out so it's not so reliant on the differential from inside and outside.

"Gore-Tex breaths well when the environment is colder on the outside. It has a bigger differential in terms of temperature difference."

A new addition to moisture management, the three-layer Gore-Tex Pro Shell was launched last month throughout selected Australian and New Zealand retailers. The new 15 denier woven backer fabric and use of low profile seam sealing tape means Gore-Tex Pro Shell jackets are now more than 65 grams lighter than an equivalent jacket made with 40 denier tricot backer. Promoted as an exclusive weave design that is extremely breathable, abrasion resistant and lightweight, Gore-Tex ensures the new fabric lives up to its 'Guaranteed to Keep You Dry Promise' by testing the Pro Shell garments in the Gore-Tex rain room.

However according to Robin Boustead, general manager of Trek & Travel on Kent Street, Sydney, it's very hard to know what sort of testing procedure is used as they all vary.

"Comparing the performance of one fabric to another is fraught with danger. There isn't a standard way of measuring garment performance. Manufacturers test their products but always with an eye on bettering their competitors, so their testing standards may be different to other manufacturers. There's a lot of confusion and it's not helped by retailers [who offer] conflicting info and try to push the wagon that's beneficial to them. Also retailers tend to sell products that are more technical than the customers need. Manufacturers don't want the customer to get stuck in a worse case scenario and not be prepared so products may be over engineered. It's also a retailers' worse nightmare - they don't want to loose face."

Additionally there can be a big difference in the performance and life of a fabric dependant on where it's produced according to Boustead.

"Some fabrics are manufactured in China and others in the US. China's fabric quality is average while the USA has great quality but it's hard for customers to tell. There's no regulation to label where the fabric is produced (only the garment) so it's hard to tell where it's manufactured. You can usually only tell by the price tag. A lot of manufacturers also rename fabrics to combat competition. It's a very competitive industry worldwide and Australia is just a small spec in the game, which means we have to roll with the punches. Home branding is fraught with all sorts of danger because you can't find what's going into the product. This is why I am in favour for better labelling as it leads to a more open decision for the customer."

By Samantha Docherty