Austrade- Paris

Austrade Paris business development manager Karine Cupial offers aspiring exporters the low-down on France's textile, clothing and footwear market.

What you need to know

Regarded as the world fashion capital and the birthplace of haute couture, Paris is actually a small market for fashion designers, brands and high-end products. However, the Paris fashion aura is still one of the most alluring in world fashion.

* Paris is a very important place to show. Paris fashion week is a key event for established French fashion brands such as Dior and Chanel. It is also an opportunity for younger talents to be discovered.

* International buyers and media travel across the globe to spend time in Paris and attend the fashion week.

* Paris fashion schools attract fashion designers from all around the world. All wish to learn the French savoir-faire and look for the possibility to join one of the most famous French fashion houses to improve their skills and get the experience needed to launch their own brand.

* An increasing number of foreign designers like Australian Martin Grant are establishing studios in Paris to create and present their collection.

Retail characteristics

Only 15 multi-labels stores and four department stores buy designer collections. In France, very few selective and multi-labels boutiques have the desire to educate their customers and introduce them to new brands and innovative designers. Only 30 accounts are trying to present an alternative selection, where they will carry mostly second line collections from International designer who are offering affordable sexy womenswear. In France, fashion stores selling high-end products are very conservative and will not take risks with any unknown labels. They will keep buying fashion from well-known French and International designers.

French customers usually buy casual clothing or streetwear and if they have to spend more money, most of them will always go for French or International established brands with a strong image reflecting luxury and quality. Whereas in England and Scandinavia, customers will spend money on young designers to be more original and follow the International trends.

* There are several levels of products shows at different time of the year, from the bigger mainstream brands to the leading young designers fashion who can sometimes appear a bit conceptual.

* Haute couture catwalks are presented in January and July.

* AW menswear is presented in January and womenswear in March (for a delivery end of July - August). Spring summer menswear is presented in July and womenswear in October (for a delivery in January). Paris fashion week usually last a week and counts a large number of events including a couple of trade shows and numerous show rooms and catwalks spread around the Louvre Museum. The official calendar of events is run by the Fédération Française de la Couture and available from their web site: Mode à Paris. A number of events "off" the official calendar are also available. All info can be found on Modem web site (www.modemonline.com) and in the Modem guide which is distributed during the fashion week.

* There is another presentation of collection which is more a mix of commercial trade shows with a large selection including menswear, womenswear, childrenwear, accessories and homeware with established and new ready-to-wear brands and a few up and coming designers. These events are held in September for spring/summer and February for autumn/winter. The key to the French market is to have a selective distribution to create a better impact on the customer trough stores with the good profile and that will help positioning the brands and will aim to the targeted customer.

* Timing of deliveries is crucial and if the collection arrives too late buyers will not hesitate to return it.

* Like in most European clients, French buyers will expect prices to be presented in Euros including all transport and customs duty (approximately 15% applies to most clothing items). They will them calculate their retail price including a 19.6 per cent VAT and a mark up of 2.5 to 3 times.

* Agents and distributors depending on their portfolio, the range of services they will offer and their recognition in the market will generally take between 20 to 50 per cent fee.

* When contacting a buyer, an agent, a distributor or a journalist in France, make sure that your look book reflects well the atmosphere of the brands with a clear product presentation and clear references and price under each picture, so they have a real tool in hand. 

* Like in any other countries where the offer is large, French customers and buyers will follow the trends and will read the women's press which will have a big impact on the brands success.

Australian labels present in the market

In France, the most popular Australian brands come from the surfwear and the beachwear world but a few others have benefit from the French people love for outdoor activities and the Australian outback.

Fashion brands and up-coming designers were non-existent until a few multi-labels fashion stores owners such as Armand Hadida from L'Eclaireur and more recently Aldric Speer from Surface 2 Air and Sandy Bontout from Les Belles Images made their way to Australia Fashion Week to discover new names and introduce them to the International fashionistas in Paris.

A number of brands and fashion designers have built a presence in France:

* Fashion brands and designers: Akira, Easton Pearson, Sass & Bide, Nicola Finetti, Willow, Material Boy, Bonds, Ksubi, LifeWithBird, Antipodium, Fleur Wood, Ginger & Smart, Alpha 60, Mjolk, Natasha, Alice McCall and Woolliwoolli.

* Lingerie and swimwear brands: Seafolly, Pleasure State, Sally Jones, AussieBum and Jets.

* Surfwear, sportswear, casual and streetwear brands: Billabong, Globe, Gallaz, Rip Curl, Insight, Hot Tuna and Drizabone.

* Accessories: RM Williams, Jacaru, Akubra Hats, Ksubi eyewear, Helen Kaminski, Road Signs and Crumpler.

Idiosyncrasies of this market

French buyers are particularly careful in the consistency of the designers' style and its collection which explains why they like to see several collections before they purchase their first piece of garment. They will look closely at the fabrics used and the cut and the finish of the garments. They appreciate well structured collection with a good number of styles.

Finally they are paying a lot of attention to a number of details including accessories used for a catwalk such as shoes.
Before taking any trade steps in the French market it is a good idea to search the Internet for market information. It is important to visit the market during fashion week to get a feeling about the International competition. It is also interesting to use this opportunity to visit some of the multi-labels stores and department stores to understand the French taste.