Designer shuts shop after 22 years

NEW ZEALAND: Offshore competition has forced Auckland-based fashion designer Doris de Pont to close her doors after more than two decades in business.

Summer will be the last season for de Pont, who is well known for her artistic and eclectic prints and vibrant use of colour. De Pont said the decision to wind up her retail and wholesale operation was a pragmatic one.

"I have been reviewing the business every six months and over the past couple of years I've come to realise that I just can't compete with the cheaper garments that come in from China and are sold though chain stores.

"Everybody seems to be under financial pressure and I've found that expectations have really lowered. People aren't prepared to pay for quality anymore when they can get double or triple the number of clothes at the same cost."

Since entering the industry more than two decades ago de Pont has always made her own textiles and collaborated with some of New Zealand's leading artists including John Pule, Rickard Killeen and photographer Sally Tagg to create limited edition pieces. During the past 22 years she has built up an enviable stable of retailers - 35 in total - from around New Zealand and Europe, including Australia's own Cando (NSW), Mid 70's Concept (WA) and Ella B (VIC).
But that hasn't been enough to keep the business competitive against cheap imports or with other New Zealand based designers manufacturing offshore.

De Pont said her hand was forced when she decided she was unwilling to compromise her ideals and send her production to China.

"I've never bought a sample in, I do original fabric, make my own patterns and all of the production is done in New Zealand by people who are extremely skilled and earn a fair wage and I'm not willing to take any short cuts."

Over the years, de Pont said she had witnessed a huge downturn in the apparel manufacturing skill base. 

"Most young people now would rather design or work in the shop than actually make the clothes themselves. There are very few opportunities out there for those who want to learn to be a machinist. Everything just gets sent offshore."
While sad to be closing, de Pont said she is also excited about new possibilities. 

"I'm actually looking forward to not having my own business. I've always wanted to go and live somewhere else for a while and now I can."

By Nicole Curin-Birch