Then & Now - Valerie Tolosa

Each fortnight Ragtrader  touches base with a brand previously profiled in the magazine to see how it has evolved in the intervening years. This week Assia Benmedjdoub spoke with Valerie Tolosa founder Valerie Tolosa.

COMPANY Valerie Tolosa
FOUNDER Valerie Tolosa

What were the key issues or challenges for your company five years ago? And now?

The key issues five years ago were not having enough makers to produce small runs so I would always deliver stock late and have stores cancel their orders. Also not stocking enough stores, so I couldn't make the production minimums, so it just ends up being a vicious cycle. Chasing outstanding money was also a huge problem as I had to do it myself and I was not really the personality to do that. Key issues now are producing stock fast enough as there is such a great demand for it. Every season my orders more than double so having enough money to produce the next range is a huge, huge juggle.

What was the range like five years ago? And now?

The range five years ago was very minimal using very plain fabrics and cuts, this was because I had very limited budget and man power. The range now is full of luxurious fabrics - silks, satins, laces and burnout cottons, and has very intricate detailing - crochet lace, ribbon threaded frill trims and silk satin bindings. The cuts now are very well fitted and styled as opposed to five years ago as I was the patternmaker and this is not my strongest point.

How many stores/wholesale accounts did you have five years ago? And now?

I only stocked 10 stores five years ago. Now I stock more than 30 stores around Australia and also stock internationally.

What was the retail climate like for your business five years ago? And now?

The retail climate five years ago was very forgiving towards young designers, that's why my label has lasted as long as it has. Now it's a lot more competitive with so many new up and coming labels, it gives retail customers so much choice as opposed to five years ago. You have to up your ante as retailer customers now know to look for quality, fit and price.

What was your approach to marketing and promotions five years ago? And now?

My approach to marketing and promotions five years ago was very limited due to budget restraints. I was very lucky to have some friends who were fashion editors, beauty editors and stylists, so they would borrow my samples and put it in their magazines. Now I am very lucky to have PR inhouse with Showpony Fashion Management taking care of everything. Media - magazines, stylists, TV, models and all press and media actually approach them to shoot my range.

How many staff did you employ five years ago? And now?

Five years ago there was only myself and my grandmother doing everything. Now I have outsourced the best companies for each field, Showpony Fashion Management for Sales, Business and PR, Rope Clothing for Sampling and Production, Trish and Outwork for Patternmaking and grading. I have only internally employed one other person, Emily Ha (my best friend) whom I studied fashion with in College. Who else will care more about your business other than your best friend.

What was your most significant development in the past five years?

My greatest moment in the past five years was doing a parade for Rosemount Australian Fashion Week this year in May. It was very well overdue and showed my stockists and fans that Valerie Tolosa had finally arrived.

What was your worst experience in the past five years?
The worst experience of the past five years has been dealing with bad sales and public relations agents who swindle your money, passion and creativity, but without them I would not be the label I am now. It makes you stronger and persevere so much more.