Heavy metal

Metallic fibres have come and gone through the fashion decades, but they will always have a place in the hearts of consumers, as Ragtrader reports.

Gold and silver fibres have been weaved into the clothing of kings since ancient times, both as decoration and to denote their position of power.
But somewhat more recently, aluminium yarns and aluminised plastic yarns have replaced gold and silver to give those of us with significantly less cash to burn access to what has always faded in and out of fashion over the decades.
One of the best known producers of metallic fibres is The Lurex Company, which has manufactured metallic fibres in Europe for more than 50 years.
According to its website, Lurex took a major leap forward in the 1980s and '90s by incorporating transparent nylon and polyester yarns in its range, which accept dyes and give sparkle effects. The company has also recently developed an ultra soft lurex fabric which it says has pushed its yarns into the 21st century.
But these days there are plenty of competitors jumping on the bandwagon, including fabric wholesaler Charles Parsons, based in New Zealand.
The company's general manager, Michael Brown, says metallic fabrics have been popular for about four seasons - particularly with the luxury end of town, with high profile designers such as Trelise Cooper loving the effect the fabric brings to her garments.
"The beauty of this fabric is that it gives a garment a semi-permanent crumpled effect, and yet can also flatten out," Brown says.
"The fabric has been particularly prolific in Europe, and sells for around $60 to $70 a metre, which is very expensive."
The current demand for metallic fabric has spawned a knock-off industry in Asia, which gives designers aiming for a more affordable consumer access to these popular fabrics, Brown says.
"Metallic fabrics have been pushed down our throat a bit at trade fairs in Asia and Europe because everyone is on the bandwagon at the moment."
But while consumers are snapping up apparel featuring metallic fibres as fast as designers can get their wares into retail stores, Brown openly admits that there are some problems with the product.
"The downside is that people are starting to think metallic is a dirty word, because while it gives designers a really great effect, you have to cover-seam everything because metallic threads can prick you. If you're not careful, it can feel like sandpaper.
"I know that when the Asians started to copy the trend, they built 30-40 per cent into the margin of the fabric because of the fall-out."
Fellow New Zealand fabric manufacturer Levana Textiles, which positions itself as a trendsetter in the area of textile technology, says it has been knitting lurex into fabric designs for swimwear and fashion for more than three decades.
Nicole Smith, Levana's Australian agent, notes 'fashion is showing a more glamorous, sophisticated styling, and a more tailored look whilst still maintaining a feminine, playful edge'.
"After consecutive seasons of casual styling, (with regard to garment design and the applied fabrics), designers are now experimenting with more luxury fabrics and taking the lead from top international designers by bringing on the bling," Smith says.
"It's certainly more popular through all parts of fashion and also swimwear. Not just metallic and lurex, but also metallic-looking fabrics like Levana's Diabolo Tactel," she says.
Verne Atmore, Levana's sales and marketing manager, says she has noticed a significant increase in the sales figures, with lurex fabrics in high demand right across the fashion spectrum.
Atmore says the metal yarns today are stronger and more durable than the ones being manufactured in years gone by.
"We have noted that there are new yarns coming onto the market with a metallic glint. Metal yarns have been, and still are, relatively easy to source."
Atmore says historically, Levana's fabrics with a lurex component have had a scratchy feel, thereby limiting design options. However advances in knitting techniques have enabled the company to produce softer metallic fabrics that can be worn next to the skin.
"This obviously has appeal to designers as it negates the need for lining. Similarly, advances in merino and nylon yarn technology means that we can now knit lurex with a wider variety of yarns than has been the case in the past, thereby allowing us to offer a greater number of options to designers."
But the question on the lips of many in the fashion industry is - will this trend toward metallic fibres last?
Brown predicts metallic fibres will be around for a while yet.
"There's no doubting that we're still selling lots of it. We're doing really well out of it."
But like any half-decent fashion item, if the love for metallic does wane at some point, it will no doubt have its time again in another decade.