Then & Now

Every fortnight Ragtrader touches base with a brand previously profiled in the magazine to see how it has evolved in the intervening years. This week, Assia Benmedjdoub caught up with Australian designer, Kirrily Johnston.

Company:Kirrily Jonhston
Owner:Kirrily Johnston


What were the key issues or challenges for your company five years ago? What are they now?
Then - trying to do everything myself and being unbelievably time poor, working 7 days, never really knowing when money was coming in. The business was so new, that it definitely wasn't on the top of people's payables lists that's for sure.
Now - managing expansion whilst trying to keep overheads down, choosing the right things to take on internationally, managing staff.
 
What was the range like five years ago? What is it like now?
Then - I have always wanted to achieve a blend of elegance and innovation, so the overall aesthetic of the collection was probably not too dissimilar. The most obvious difference being that I am from Melbourne originally and had at that time only been in Sydney a year, so I think it had a bit more of a Melbourne look and feel to it.
It was probably slightly edgier then, whereas now it is more sophisticated.
Back then a collection consisted of 20 styles, now it is around 60. 
 
How many stores/wholesale accounts did you have five years ago? How many do you have now?
I had 15 wholesale accounts in 2002, all in Australia.
Now - I have a flagship store in Sydney that I opened in June 2005. I am also opening my new Melbourne Store this month.
We have approx 45 wholesale accounts (including David Jones). In February we are also launching E-Shop through our website.     
 
What was the retail climate like for your business five years ago? How has it changed?
Back then I really had to put an effort in to get most buyers to come and see the collection. There were a lot of missed appointments, unreturned phone calls and, "Sorry, you are who?...from where?" I cant tell you how many times a week I used to have to spell my name.
Now, fortunately most buyers now approach us. We don't often have to do the hard sell. We had one buyer last season that we had sent press packs to for three years and then finally when we gave up she came to us.
The difference when your label is known and appreciated is incredible, and understandably so.

What was your approach to marketing and promotions five years ago? What is it now?
A very simple look book, usually shot by a friend, sometimes me as the model( but I always sent them out with the head cut off )! Printed up in a very simple format and posted out to our existing buyers, buyers that I wanted to see and to a few of the magazine editors, namely Harpers, Vogue, Marie Claire etc. There wasn't much of a budget for printing that's for sure.
Now - We now do a show for Spring/Summer. Winter we usually do a really beautiful shoot and send out catalogues; this season it was shot by David Mandleberg. We are very fortunate to be popular amongst stylists, so our editorial is quite strong. We do not advertise at this point, but we are considering it with the opening of Melbourne coming up.

What was your approach to staff training five years ago? How has it changed?
Then - Ha Ha.  
Now - I am actually quite a good manager. I can see where my staff's strengths and weaknesses lie quite easily and so I therefore train, or implement training with that in mind. I really believe that as an employee you can create your own position if you want to, especially within a growing company. 
Two of my girls started as work experience students, one is now my P.A and the other is my Design Assistant. 

How many staff did you employ five years ago? Now?
Then- me plus a bookeeper one day a week.
Now ? 10

What was your approach to retail technology five years ago? Now?
It really wasn't something I thought about.
Now - grow your systems with your business.

What has been the worst experience of the past five years?
There have been a few. Landlords mainly.    

What was your greatest moment/most significant development in the past five years?
Being asked to do the Greville Street Independent's Day Show for the Loreal Melbourne Fashion Festival in 2001. It was the first time I had ever been invited to participate in a show and I felt like I had won the lottery.