Design debut

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Each season trade fair Fashion Exposed offers 20 up-and-coming designers a chance to show off their unique talent at its Melbourne event. Tracey McEldowney profiles four attempting to stand out from the crowd.

Yekaterina Peker
Set to independently launch her label in Sydney at the end of this month, Katya Peker is already attracting the right type of attention.
Having become the darling of the Australian fashion press pack after appearing as part of East Sydney's "Five" parade at April's Australian Fashion Week, Peker also took out the gong for best avant-garde garment at last month's Fashion Exposed. Targeting women aged 20 to 45, Peker says her luxurious designs - which include tops, jackets, skirts, pants and dresses made from wool blends, angora, mohair and silk - are made for those that believe in fashion as a "form of self-expression". Manufactured in Sydney, the label's price points range from $50 for a pair of stockings to $760 for a coat.

Alexi Freeman
Hobart-born designer Alexi Freeman has always been known for causing a bit of a stir. A former sculpture major, his first fashion collection featured a "rather risque" hand-crocheted red copper wire garment which he subsequently wore around the conservative streets of Hobart and had him dubbed the "walking art piece". Now based in Melbourne, these days Freeman has toned down his eccentricity, creating highly symmetric and geometric aesthetics and pitching his label against mid to high-end Australian fashion industry sweethearts such as Alice McCall and Lover. The range, manufactured in Melbourne, is made from silk and merino jersey, angora wool, silk chiffon and satin and available at price points of between $130 and $1180. Sizes range from eight to 14 but will make-to-measure upon request.

Chookleaf
Melbourne designer Rie Southwell and business partner Guthrie Boyd reckon they have sewn up "the cute factor" in their range of handmade leather children's shoes. Having launched Chookleaf last November, the pair reports a "fantastic" reaction to their offering with their bid to use colour as their signature seemingly paying off. The brand, which was named the best accessories label at Fashion Exposed, currently offers a range of 10 styles including boots, loafers, sandals and slippers. Manufactured by a "beautiful couple" in Bali, the label is available in children's sizes 1 to 14 with price points ranging from $44 for a loafer to $130 for a fully lined leather boot.

Marilena Romeo
Marilena Romeo is a milliner who likes living in the past but has a clear eye on the future. Coming from a background in public relations and media, Romeo began taking millinery seriously in 1992 after her hats received a top 10 placing in the "Le Grand Prix of Hats" design awards. Targeting mostly women - but occasionally men - aged between 25 and 65, Romeo describes her creations as coming from a "bygone era". "I then exaggerate and create a jaw-dropping unique hat, she says. Self-manufactured in Melbourne, Romeo uses a lot of vintage Italian, American and French veilings and straws in her designs and creates each flower by hand. Price points start at $180.
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