Making light of knitwear

A fresh attitude to knitwear means those scratchy winter staples could soon be relegated to dustbin of fashion history, as Belinda Smart reports.

Knitwear has been undergoing something of a transformation in recent times, with climatic change, technological innovation and attitudes to fashion all playing a part in its revamp.
Once labelled 'classic' at best, and at worst burdened with an unflattering 'Grandpa' image, knitwear is lightening up, emerging as a key trans-seasonal staple and a boon for Australia's market.
For some leading labels - such as womenswear label Nicholson, owned by Melbourne fashion house Covert Fashions - the category now plays a central role in their brand offer, regardless of season.
Lighter weight knits are increasingly sought-after, and give a casual, unstructured look that lends itself well to layering, confirms Nicholson designer Georgina Sutton.
All Nicholson yarns are imported from Italy, with the garments knitted in Melbourne and, while this boosts the retail price, Sutton says it also allows for a premium quality product.
"Our knits are really great pieces for a woman to have in her wardrobe. They're also very much associated with luxury and are usually bought as investment pieces."
Knits are also more adaptable than ever before. The recent trend towards milder Australian winters has led to lighter weight formulations that can be worn all year round and layered or de-layered in response to fluctuating temperatures, she says.
"A few of the lighter weight pieces are very strong sellers, particularly the cardigans, which have a modern silhouette but also have that timeless quality. They're just great pieces to wear, particularly in Melbourne where the summers are so unpredictable. They're something you can just put in your bag and they are much more versatile than a jacket."
Melbourne men's retail label Calibre has also highlighted knitwear as a key part of this season's autumn/winter look. The styling of Calibre's latest knitwear range includes shawl collars, deep V-neck sweaters and hooded knit variations, key to a layered look essential for changeable weather.
Meanwhile Melbourne knitwear wholesaler Toorali Australia has responded to increased demand for lighter weight knits in recent years with the launch of GHG Merino Essentials.
Toorali owns three other labels: Toorali for men, Toorali for women and outdoor lifestyle label Snowy River - but GHG Merino Essentials -- launched last year - is showing the strongest growth, confirms Toorali general manager Simon Smith.
Initially created as a brand specific to ultra fine Merino, the company quickly realised the label could be marketed and sold as a lighter weight product ideally positioned for the domestic market.
"It's something that can definitely be worn year round and has that trans-seasonal feel to it," Smith confirms.
Louie Bafas, sales and marketing manager for men's knitwear label Aklanda - also Melbourne-based - concurs demand for lighter knitwear is on the rise, particularly in the Sydney and Queensland markets.
The company owns two labels; Aklanda Australia - targeted at the classic, conservative market - and Aklanda (Black Label), which has captured what Bafas refers to as the "young daddy" market with more fitted, casual knits.
"Our top-selling light weight knit is a stock service product, it has been in the Market for 20 years and it is a light to mid-weight offered in three styles; crew, V-neck and three-button polo," Bafas says.
It's hard to say how or where exactly knitwear's face lift started, but perhaps Australian knitwear's oldest brother-in-arms - Merino wool - has something to do with it.
Leading wool entities including Australian Wool Innovation (AWI) and Woolmark have led the charge to snatch back market share from synthetics by promoting the unique qualities of wool, with AWI's research leading to new fabrications such as light and soft Merino, which offers "warmth without the weight", says AWI Fashion Communications Manager Melissa Grace.
Light, warm 100 per cent merino garments are possible through the use of an innovative manufacturing process, which blends Merino with 30 per cent water-soluble plastic fibre. These fibres then form part of the fabric and when they are dissolved and washed out during final finishing the result is an ultra-light garment that is soft, light and fluid.
But while wool undoubtedly wins hands down over synthetics for warmth and "heritage" appeal, there is now a broad spectrum of non-woollen yarns to choose from, as Nicholson's Georgina Sutton confirms.
As well as cardigans, the signature Nicholson circle skirt with wide ribbed waist-band - which can also be worn as a strapless dress - has proved a strong seller since the label's inception three seasons ago. A standout in wool yarn for winter, it will also repeat for summer in a linen viscose blend, Sutton confirms. Nicholson knits incorporate cotton, synthetic and silk yarns, she adds.
"There really is an amazing amount of choice now. There are even yarns which utilise metals, so that you have a stainless steel fabrication. There are all sorts of options and it makes the process of designing knitwear a lot more interesting."
As Australia's climate becomes a lot less predictable, the good news for fashion houses, retailers and consumers alike is that knitwear is following suit, emerging from that musty winter closet as a year-round option with infinite design potential.

:Nicholson knitted summer dress.
:Melbourne womenswear label Nicholson sees knitwear as a central part of its offer.