International autumn/winter trends can be difficult to sell in Australia’s transeasonal climate. Four trend forecasting firms reveal their ‘best bets’ for the aw2011 season to assia benmedjdoub.
Kate Vandermeer – director, iSpyStyle
WOMENSWEAR: I think mass market will embrace the shearling aviator-style crop jacket like Burberry has shown and early adopters will embrace the ‘70s boot leg/pant leg like Celine and Chloe showcased.
MENSWEAR: Retailers will also covet the aviator jacket for men, however I think the military jacket – double or single breasted, with a play on black, navy, khaki and camel with military detailing like buttons and shoulder epaulets – will be a mass trend for menswear, from quite literal military jackets that belong on a naval base or a uniform to classic shapes that adopt military elements.
Sue Evans – catwalk editor, WGSN
MENSWEAR: Heritage – the essence of the heritage theme is to create timeless, classic styles that will have broad market appeal. Outdoor pursuits such as horse riding, hunting, fishing and alpine activities are key inspirations for the look, with flat-quilted jackets, duffel coats, gilets, blanket wrap-coats and shirts with knitted sleeves. Knitwear is central to the theme, with hand-crafted looks, intarsia and jacquard patterns in the mix. Adding patches of tartan to classic jeans, trimming a denim jacket with a shearling wool collar or placing leather trims on a kilt skirt are all ways to acknowledge the trend. Patchwork touches can be used to create a rustic edge.
WOMENSWEAR: Baroque/Military – ever popular, the military trend is again on the cards, but moving forward with romantic, rococo or baroque references, particularly for youth retailers. It is a fabric-led season; everything is quite tactile – plush silk velvet, working along with tweed or leather for contrast. Key designers sporting military touches on the runway include Burberry and Marc by Marc Jacobs. The look embraces Napoleon-era skinny trousers with tie-up detailing near the ankles, brass buttons on coats, high ruffled collars, touches of lace and vintage hardware detailing. A key step is to move the bomber jacket trend along to an aviator-style jacket – still in leather and cropped, but with wool trim or collars.
Tony Bannister – director, Scout
MENSWEAR: The Spiv – this look harks back to the 1960s, slick mod looks but casualised with denim and lightweight parkas and anoraks. In the wake of WWII, comedian Arthur English had a successful career appearing as a spiv with a pencil moustache, wide-brimmed hat, light-coloured suit and a bright patterned tie. This look is now more relaxed and street-smart, perfect for our Australian climate.
WOMENSWEAR: Secretariat – women’s retro trend, embracing the womanly look after seasons of skinny, stick-thin silhouettes. Drawing on the success of television series Mad Men, which centred on the 1960s advertising industry, this look has been referenced by Louis Vuitton, Prada and Giles Deacon. Think prim dresses that nip in at the waist then flare out, bold floral prints, crop sweaters, fitted jackets and early 1960s shift dresses.
Julia Fowler – director, EDITD
MENSWEAR: For men we’re looking at post-post-modern military; a trend suited to Australia’s predominant streetwear focus. Exposed press studs, utility pockets, drawstrings, chunky knits, braces, button-down jackets and a colour palette of khaki, sand, age-worn leather with highlights of navy. This signals a move away from the preppy towards a relaxed, grounded mood.
WOMENSWEAR: For women the key trend is comfortingly irregular – think full-length skirts and cosy sweaters. Luxury textiles are teamed with the organic and rustic, while touches of nostalgia are reassuring. Colours become more serious; olive, burgundy, gold and ash. That pretty, feminine girl from spring/summer has now matured.