NATIONAL: Designer womenswear brand Thurley will kick off a two-year retail rollout strategy next month, backed by one of the most influential players in the Australian fashion industry.
The brand will open its first concept store at Melbourne Central in August, followed by a site at Westfield Doncaster in September and an additional 13 stores nationally by 2012. In the lead up to its assault on the bricks-and-mortar fashion market, Thurley will also launch an e-commerce arm next month offering its entire spring/summer 2010/11 collection.
Thurley designer and founder Helen O’Connor said this was an pivotal moment for the five-year-old brand, which is currently represented in 50 independent boutiques and 10 David Jones department stores nationwide.
“Wholesaling is a wonderful way for small labels to get a foothold in the industry and to establish a core customer following,” O’Connor said. “However, we feel our brand has reached the point that it needs to move into the next growth phase by launching the brand vertically.
“Over time, we hope to establish a flagship boutique in each city, at a time when the brand’s vision is fully developed and crafted to meet our customers wants, needs and expectations.”
The roll-out strategy, which will be bolstered by the introduction of a new accessories, footwear and daywear offer, is backed by industry power-broker Peter Lew. While speculation continues to mount on whether Lew will capitalise on his Australian rights to international giant Zara this year – a license he has reportedly held since 2000 – his investment firm Brandbank has thrown its full weight behind the Thurley retail venture.
Lew declined to comment on how many brands were currently backed by the firm, but O’Connor revealed their agreement will have broad implications for Thurley.
“Previously we have produced two collections a year. Our retail expansion has encouraged us to increase our deliveries to monthly drops to ensure the product offering is always fresh, and ensuring our customer is continuously inspired and excited. We will be increasing our product offer from the foundation of eveningwear that we have built the brand on to a broader lifestyle approach.”
This includes an exclusive daywear category, shoes, bags, costume jewellery and bridalwear, with the latter set to have its own concept store in coming seasons. While a large portion of these products are still in development, O’Connor revealed the daywear line will consist of luxurious knitwear, draped jersey dresses and a range of coordinated separates. Pricing will be competitive and Thurley will aspire to keep a majority of manufacturing onshore, O’Connor said.
“There has been increased pressure on the label to produce offshore in order to remain competitive in the marketplace, however we have ensured that a large portion of our manufacturing has remained here in Australia.”
The first Melbourne Central store measures approximately 150sqm and is positioned alongside high-end players Sass & Bide and Scanlan and Theodore. The space has been created by leading architectural firm Russell & George, with parquet panelled walls and flooring offset with inlayed mirror elements of bronze, silver and greys. Suspended stage lighting looks down on 1930s French armchairs, tonal floor to ceiling curtains and glass displays.
It is understood other stores will mirror the theme, in line with Thurley’s reputation as a feminine womenswear brand. The e-commerce site, meanwhile, will be backed with social networking platforms and a dedicated Thurley iPhone application.
Peter Lew hit national headlines in 2006, when he sold womenswear chain Witchery to Gresham Private Equity for around $130 million. His father Solomon Lew is the chairman of retail group Premier Investments, which operates several major chains including Just Jeans and Portmans.