Then & Now

Each fortnight Ragtrader touches base with a brand previously profiled in the magazine to see how it has evolved in the intervening years. This week Cherie Royle caught up with Yuda Shmueli, owner and fashion designer of leatherwear label Vinetti.

What were the key issues or challenges for your company five years ago? And now?
Our aim has always been about making beautiful, good quality garments with a point of difference. That's something we can't compromise.

How many staff did you employ in 2001? And now?
We have half of the amount of employees today than in the past due to the fact that some of our manufacturing has gone offshore. There is less demand for a lot of people in our Sydney factory now.

What has been the worst experience of the past five years?
A. Doing too many things at once, losing control of it all and ending up in a big mess.

What was the range like five years ago? How has it changed?
Five years ago the range was trendy and current at the time - the styles were more elegant and simple. Now, styles are more body fitted with a touch of streetwear influences. The leather is styled and has a combination of 1970s and 1980s fashion influences. It's got a new, trendy edge to it but there is a lot of detailing from those eras. The cuts are quite trim, there's a combination of raw edging along with a ragged and casual look. Although elegance never goes out of style, women's fashion definitely has more of an edge to it these days.

What was the retail climate like for your sector five years ago? How has it changed?
The retail sector as a whole is more challenging today than it was five years ago due to the over supply of retail and the under demand of consumer spending on fashion. The average person today has more financial commitment (on mortgages and high interest rates etc) and therefore they have less disposable income. Another factor is there are a lot of cheap imports coming into Australia, which takes business away from local manufacturers. There are also more stores opening up everywhere which means a lot less of the customer spending can be shared around now.

Any other significant comments you'd like to make?
Leather generally is moving more to accessories, which is what we are starting to develop now. We are currently working on a range of handbags and will venture into more accessories in the near future. The fashion industry goes through periods of different trends - belts for example. Fifteen years ago belts were very popular and they're coming back into fashion now.