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Every edition Ragtrader catches up with a previously featured label to chart its development over the intervening period. Here Assia Benmedjdoub talks to womenswear wholesale and retail label Moire.

COMPANY: Moire

DESIGNER: Jodi Barbara

What were the key issues or challenges for your company when you started out? And now?

Branding and getting the name out there. Now it's integrity, good products as well as our focus on Australian made and real customer service.

What was the range like back then? What is it like now?

I designed what was missing for myself and it was basically good practical clothing that breathes. I couldn't find that out there and if I did, the cuts were terrible. I had always stuck to what I liked.

It's pretty much the same now. I only change the colours and add sleeves for winter, which is what I think people like about the product too. It's seasonless, so the favourite singlet you wore and loved to death is still available over and over again.Of course there are new pieces and it evolves but if it 'ain't broke why fix it?' I do tend to design a lot more for the consumer and listen to what they want now more than ever.

How many stores/wholesale accounts did you have back then? And now?

One iconic store in Sydney's Bondi which is still here ten years later. Our second store is a beautiful workroom and sale outlet in Watsons Bay. We also have a great online store.

What was the wholesale/retail climate like for your business then? What is like now?

It was hard getting established but we made it work. Winter was awful in Bondi you could see the tumbleweeds rolling down Hall Street. I haven't noticed really how it has changed. Yet I still believe we are the bread and butter of fashion. You always need basics, we have built a good loyal customer base, travellers have always loved the product and the Australian made certainly has a lot of appeal these days as well as the environmental thing, so I think we have made some good steady progress.

What was your approach to marketing and promotions five years ago? And now?

We didn't have the money then so it was all word of mouth and we also started at the markets so word travels quickly when people love something they will wear it and tell their friends. We have thrown more money at it, you need to and the industry demands it, but at the end of the day it's your customers that are your walking billboards.

What was your approach to staff training then? How has it changed?

Throw them in the deep end. Now, we still throw them in the deep end but we look after them. If you get them to think like you, make them feel important and give them boundaries they will respect you. It's the same as running a kindergarten.

How many staff did you employ then? And now?

Then we employed two. Now it varies between four and six including production.

What was your greatest moment/most significant development in the past five years?

Gratitude, people walking out and feeling good about themselves, offering them choice value for money and acknowledgment I think are the secrets to building a good long term business. Vision: having a focus and sticking to one thing. Get involved on every level of the business and watching the seed grow

What has been the worst experience of the past five years?

We have had many mountains and they are all usually production errors, but we have learnt from every one of them. I have also learnt to always listen to my instincts because you can get side tracked and go up the wrong path. We have all done that.

Then

Name:Moire

Challenges: Branding

Staff: Two

Training:Sink or swim

Retail climate: Winter was challenging

Worst moment: Production issues

Now

Name:Moire

Challenges: Integrity

Staff: Varies

Training: Confidence building

Retail climate: More focussed

Best moment: Customer gratitude

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