The ties that bind

Following an extensive history traceable back to Louise XIV, fashion historians began predicting the demise of the necktie as early as the 1960s. But now nearly 50 years later, the humble tie is still holding its ground, as Tracey McEldowney discovered.

Designer Carlo Carli calls them art. To Ian Austen, of shirt brand Edward Stripes, they are an indicator of status. While for Mary Poulakis, of menswear retailer Harrolds, they are best described as a metaphor of a man's taste.
But with no obvious function, a sometimes-dubious appeal, and in a climate where casual is king and global warming a concern, what is it about the necktie category that has such staying power?
American-based designer-cum-fashion author Alan Flusser believes ties may merely be a part of an inherited tradition.
In a piece detailing the history of neckwear, Flusser writes that as long as world and business leaders continue to wear ties, the young executives will follow suit and ties will remain a key to the boardroom.
On the other hand, he argues, there does seem to be some aesthetic value in wearing a tie.
"In addition to covering the buttons of a shirt and giving emphasis to the verticality of a man's body - in much the same way that the buttons on a military uniform do - it adds a sense of luxury and richness, colour and texture, to the austerity of the dress shirt and business suit."
But on Australian soil at least, it seems the answer has less to do with uniforms and boardrooms and more to do with emotion and a sense of self.
Carli, who began building his self-titled brand specialising in neckwear more than 10 years ago, says the mass appeal of ties in this country lies in the fact they are one of the few items of clothing that are truly trans-seasonal.
Carli, who sells his Italian-fabricated product for around $150 apiece, says Generation X and Y men also have more discretionary spending than their forefathers. And, unlike their baby boomer parents, are not afraid to spend their money on items such as ties, that make them feel "like men" without feeling they have to justify the cost for an item they will only wear part of the year.
But could this all be about to come to an end?
It is if Asian influences are anything to go by.
Trend forecaster Promostyl's is warning the casual look is in.
In its recently-released men's trends book, the service warns: "This is the second consecutive summer that Japanese businessmen have opted to not wear ties to work. This look has been adopted by members of government, civil servants and even in the private sector. This trend has come about not as a fashion statement but to reduce airconditioning consumption that leads to global warming. We also see more Japanese manufacturers making lightweight, non-lined suits. We see a new freedom in menswear with a less formal approach to suits, less coordinated jackets [and] pants. Casual Fridays take on the rest of the week."
But while admitting to facing increasing competition from overseas as well as from domestic neckwear manufacturers, Carli believes there will always be a ready market for ties here - no matter what the season or state of the planet.
"It's actually amazing to see that ties sold very well for [the impending] spring/summer season, given that it's warmer in terms of climate [and] showing more men with open collars, [and some] sporting no ties at all. I am at the stage where it's largely important to continue to reinforce fashion and trend through the tie - whether its autumn, winter, spring or summer.
"The vast thing about designing ties is whether I design a collection based on spring/summer, or autumn/winter as the ties are truly and forever trans-seasonal."
Carli, who describes himself as an "anti-conformist" for using cotton blends and viscose combinations as well as traditional silk in the construction of his ties, says the difference in the way men and women shop in recent times has also had an impact on the endurance of the sector.
He says that while the approach men and women take when shopping for ties differs greatly, the end result is always the same.
"Men today are just as dominant and influential in dressing as women, they understand at the present what 'they' want. Women love and adore my product and want more men to buy into it."
However for her part, Poulakis says that within the four-strong Harrolds stores, the opposite is true.
She says the most often-used fashion consultant for the adult male consumer is a woman - in many cases the would-be purchaser's wife.
"She has a tremendous impact on his purchases. Women who come in shopping without their other half tend to buy apparel and accessories such as ties and shirts."
Poulakis, whose store has ties ranging in price from $115 to $900, believes a tie says everything about a man and for this reason, classic rather than novelty pieces will always endure.
"We are selling a huge amount of stripes at the moment. Earthy colours - browns, greens are also selling well [as are] pinks and blues."
Austen, whose price points hover around the $85 mark, agrees.
"In our business our whole genre of product is the businessman/corporate-end client who, when they buy ties, see these as signatures of their status within their place of employment. Trendwise? Stripes, checks and solid blues and whites always sell strongly. We're not really advocates of fashion, we're more into our classics."
So is it safe to assume we have finally seen the last of what some term the most hideous of all neckwear, the novelty tie?
If you believe Poulakis, then the answer is no.
She says no other item the man wears says so much so quickly as what he wears around his neck.
"The most somber, dignified man may wear an outrageous Santa tie during the holidays or an executive [may wear] a lavender floral tie. Donning a novelty tie changes a man's total appearance to the world."
For Carli, the question is more one of definition.
"It depends on what kind of novelty tie it is and more importantly what you are trying to sell. Anytime I think novelty I think 'shabby' - something cheap and designed not to hang around too long.
He says men should be seeking a tie that follows them through their fashion phases - something that can be worn again when style and trend makes its famous full circle.
"The question is are novelty ties designed as a collector's item more than a wearer's item?" Only time will tell.