The expo experience

While attendance figures for FASHION EXPOSED continue to rise, some industry voices claim the true potential of the expo remains untapped, as Belinda Smart reports.

As Australia's leading fashion trade fair, FASHION EXPOSED has become something of a "red letter date" in the fashion industry calendar.
The expo - organised by Melbourne events company Australian Exhibitions and Conferences (AEC) - is widely regarded as a pilgrimage of almost religious proportions, allowing exhibitors to showcase their product, while offering buyers the opportunity to access new labels and keep abreast of current trends.
This year's autumn/winter edition - which took place in Melbourne from September 4 to 6 - reported 10,000 visitors, an increase of 17 per cent on last year's effort, despite a number of challenges.
Firstly, the event kicked off on Father's Day - AEC says the clash of dates was unavoidable - which many claimed would deter visitors. It was also felt buyers would be reluctant to write orders for next year after the so-called "retail winter from hell".
Exhibitor Sydney womenswear wholesaler Françoise Esterhazy, who distributes her self-named label to around 40 boutiques across Australia, says she wrote less business than anticipated.
"I think, because of the warmer winter, it's been a quieter Melbourne show. It definitely seems a bit slower than usual."
Buyer Warren Soundy of Soundy Menswear in Tasmania supported this view.
"I have spent money [at FASHION EXPOSED] but I am being very frugal, with the way this past winter went. My spending will definitely be less than in previous years."
However, while the final tally of business written is not available at the time of writing, AEC managing director Marie Kinsella remains upbeat.
"Despite the reservations about Father's Day, the foot traffic on the first day exceeded that of last year," she says.
"Furthermore, an exhibitor survey showed 43 per cent described the business written as "very good to excellent", while 27 per cent claimed it was "average to satisfactory".
Yet despite these promising statistics, there is a strong body of opinion that FASHION EXPOSED needs to lift its game to keep abreast of the changing nature of the industry.
Carol Hanlon, manager of the Textile Clothing and Footwear Resource Centre of Western Australia (TCF WA) - who attended FASHION EXPOSED with a delegation of TCF WA-affiliated exhibitors - claims now more than ever the event is up against international competition.
"The world is a much smaller place now, much more sophisticated. You've got all these global trade fairs and travel is much cheaper so it's easier for people to travel internationally."
FASHION EXPOSED should do more to reflect the widespread trend away from indenting and towards working closer to the season, she says.
"Exhibitors would benefit if they could sell second summer at the expo itself. Maybe the FASHION EXPOSED Buyers Guide should have a symbol on it to show indent only or stock available/second summer ranges."
"It's not just up to the organisers though. Exhibitors need to be more entrepreneurial. For example they could offer FASHION EXPOSED specials in the form of a discount for buyers who commit to orders during the event. It's really about value adding so that exhibitors and buyers get as much as possible out of the event and see it as crucial."
First time exhibitor Joanne Tome, director of Oleimports which represents international underwear label Punto Blanco's Australian interests, claims FASHION EXPOSED needs to take a more proactive role in assisting new exhibitors.
"I would like to see the organisers take a delegation of buyers on a walking tour around the fair and specifically point out the newcomers," she says.
AEC's Marie Kinsella argues next year's Sydney edition will meet this demand with a designated newcomers' section - titled "Debut" and is considering flagging newcomers in the Buyers Guide with an easily recognisable symbol.
However, some suggestions will not be so easy to put into practice, claims AEC project manager - fashion Sue Dight.
"[Promoting second summer] is difficult from a marketing point of view because FASHION EXPOSED is all about indenting for next winter. Selling off the stands is not really possible for security reasons."
Not all attendees are critical of the event however. Perth women's fashion designer Gaynor Grant's main priority was to break into the Melbourne market. She also planned to leverage the appointment of her Melbourne agent to promote her self-named womenswear label.
"When you're based in Western Australia the networking you can do at an event like this is invaluable," she says.
"My trip has been more about getting leads to follow up that writing actual business," she says, adding that Melbourne expo is invaluable for sourcing fabric and trimmings suppliers.
"There seem to be a lot of wholesalers in Melbourne, it's a real hub for that sort of activity."
While arguments in criticism or praise of FASHION EXPOSED persist, one common criticism from last year's event now seems beyond dispute; namely the poor state of Australian menswear.
Many buyers use the words "unimaginative" and "middle of the road" to describe the category. Mark Thwaites of Bells Retail Store in South Australia, however, is more direct.
"Menswear is still as boring as batshit. [Menswear specialists] have got to learn to take a risk; they've got to try something different. I think those that do will make some money."