The devil in the detail
The domination of Chinese apparel manufacturing has taken its toll on local suppliers. Once numerous, they are now dwindling, with only a smattering of specialists holding out, like so many landless knights, against the might of the Chinese dragon.
Ironically though, some savvy onshore suppliers are finding ways to capitalise on the side effects of China's rise as a manufacturing hub.
As Chinese manufacturing becomes more sophisticated and expensive in the main cities such as Shanghai, the clothing industry - together with ancillary suppliers like trimmings specialists - is spilling over into remoter parts of China, with the result that quality is often compromised.
Where quality is of importance, Australian companies can drop ship trimmings into Chinese manufacturers rather than allowing them to source the trimmings themselves.
Melbourne trimmings producer and wholesaler Travlon Trimmings is one company doing just that.
It's just another way of value adding the company's service to its clients, says Travlon managing director Ricky Fink.
"Chinese manufacturing has dramatically shrunk the Australian garment industry. Australian garment suppliers however often find that Chinese garment manufacturers pay little regard to the selection of buttons and trimmings. To some garment suppliers, the selection or quality of the button or trimmings makes little difference. To others however, as garments are fashion items, points of difference and attention to detail require more careful and thoughtful selection of buttons and trimmings," he says.
"Accordingly, some garment suppliers make their button and trimmings selections in Australia, and either order and supply the trimmings on behalf of the manufacturer, or alternatively specify the manufacturer to purchase the trimmings directly from Travlon. This ensures the garment maintains its point of difference, and ensures control over the design feature of the trim as well as the quality."
In terms of the challenges of shipping to China, the process is not very different to supplying local garment subcontractors in the 1980's and 1990's, he says.
"The designers specify or order the trims, and Travlon will supply to wherever the garment is produced. This process ensures that the trim specified is the trim applied to the garment. All charges are generally incorporated into the cost of the trim, however for small orders, extra freight charges may apply.
"The real challenge is with the Chinese garment manufacturer who sometimes prefers not to relinquish control of the manufacturing process, and prefers to apply the cheapest and most readily available trim and not necessarily the most appropriate one for the garment," Fink says.
According to Sydney designer Melanie Cutfield trimmings offer the greatest opportunities but also the greatest challenge in terms of creating a point of difference.
"I source locally and most designers would source their trims through local agents that have connections with offshore trimmings suppliers. Everyone has equal access to the same suppliers so the challenge is to do something different.
"While major companies have the buying power to secure exclusivity it's harder for smaller operators," she says.
In her view it's not what you do, but the way that you do it.
She might use a number of zips, buttons or binding as decorative and functional elements of a garment.
"Where a zip plays an integral part in the garment I would tend to use a high quality zip. China made zips tend to be poorer quality while reputable companies like YKK or Jets are more reliable," she says.
It's wise to do the arithmetic for each trim, as costs can creep up without careful monitoring.
"You can use zips or grosgrain ribbons relatively inexpensively, but it does depend how many you use in one garment. Say the ribbon is $1.50 a metre that's fine if you're only using one, but if you use more than one it can start to get expensive. If you're looking at three zips and leather tabs, which could add another $20 to $30 to your costs your looking at a $100 retail mark-up and you have to ask whether the customer can really see the value in that. You might want to look at less expensive fabric, but the main thing is to think first about the end price point before you embark," Cutfield advises.
While high end womenswear designers like Cutfield have long used trimmings to create point of difference, the growing flamboyance of menswear has seen a growth in demand for trimmings, according to Melbourne trimmings wholesaler M. Recht.
In shirting, demand is up for buttons and trims for collars and cuffs, while the denim market continues to be a strong performer that constantly changes, says manager Alan Recht.
"We supply the zippers, thread, jean buttons, rivets and are constantly influenced by new designs out of Europe. There's a huge range of different metal finishes for buttons and rivets including antique nickel and brass. Companies frequently alter their logos to sustain interest in the market and there are new styles of jeans button coming on the market every two to three years."
M. Recht now offers product development services and its long-term relationship with offshore suppliers allows it to proactively introduce new or appropriate trimmings to its designer clients.
"Not everything is effective though. Australians are quite conservative and some things that work well in Europe wouldn't work well here," he says.
Melbourne menswear brand Calibre recently sourced snap rivets for a jacket from M. Recht and regularly uses trimmings to embellish or add a point of difference, says designer Paul Talarico.
He believes trimmings unquestionably add to the perceived value of a garment.
"We might use ribbon to enhance the centre front placket of a shirt and we're constantly sourcing interesting rivets and buttons in materials such as mother of pearl or horn. We would also use Calibre sources from local agents and through international trade fairs, mainly Premiere Vision in France. The company tries to keep costs in check, although these tend to rise if a trimming has to be custom made or specially sourced.
The investment - however large or small - usually pays off, says Talarico.
"The purpose of a trimming is to make something look special so the customer can see where they are spending their money," he says.
In the decade Talarico has worked for Calibre he has never seen the brand's trimmings duplicated elsewhere.
"There's such a huge variety out there."
Not everyone sees menswear as the great white hope however, as Michael Greenfield, managing director Of Sydney fabric and trimmings wholesaler E & M Greenfield claims.
"Menswear is as dead as a doornail these days. Suits are not very common anymore and most men wear street or casual wear imported from China."
The real growth area for the company is in special events such as weddings and funerals, he says.
"It's the sign of an affluent society where people are searching for places to put their money. Some spend it on gambling, some on discretionary goods like mobile phones, while others spend it on their wedding," he says.
Most trimmings suppliers agree that in order to stay afloat in today's market they need to be agile enough to respond quickly to changing demands.
Travlon's Ricky Fink concedes it is too early to tell whether the company's drop shipping strategy is adding to its bottom line - purely because the company is "continually trying to adapt to the changing Australian garment manufacturing industry". It is also changing its structure to suit the current requirements of the industry and its customers.
"As long as customers see the benefit in careful selection of trimmings to ensure their garments have points of difference, and wish to control this process, Travlon can continue to offer value and service to its customers," he says.
As well as drop shipping the company is continually looking for ways to add value to its services.
It conscientiously sources the latest fashion buttons and trimmings globally, visiting fairs in Europe and Asia as well as maintaining very close relations with its suppliers in Italy, France, Asia and around the world.
"We prepare extensive new ranges of the latest fashion trimmings, and show many more items than we have done in previous years," says Fink.
Michael Greenfield claims that while volumes are generally down at E & M Greenfield, there is still a lot of mileage in servicing smaller operators like dressmakers or bridal specialists.
However, while it's still possible to thrive in today's trimmings market, it takes a lot more agility and gumption for the knights to outwit the dragon.
Greenfield has no illusions on this score.
"It's a fiddly business and it's getting harder and harder to stay on top."