The calm before the ANZFW storm
It's not everyday a planeload of Australians can walk onto the tarmac at Auckland Airport and be welcomed with open arms.
But then again it's not everyday that same planeload of bodies could potentially help drive apparel exports worth more than $220 million and make superstars out of the country's fledging fashion design community.
And therein lies the beauty of Air New Zealand Fashion Week (ANZFW), being staged from October 17 to 21.
About to celebrate its fifth birthday the event, sponsored by Air New Zealand and supported by a host of strategic partners including New Zealand Trade & Enterprise and Tourism New Zealand, has grown considerably in the four years since its inception.
Having launched with just 43 labels, 160 buyers from five countries and 96 media from seven countries in 2001, the event last year boasted an impressive 600 buyers and media from more than 11 countries.
ANZFW managing director Pieter Stewart says in an attempt to secure a less rushed schedule, event organisers last year chose fewer designers than before on the catwalk while also following more stringent selection criteria. A formula that was also incorporated into this year's preparations.
"Designers are invited to be considered for selection. There is always great interest but our criteria is strict as it's important for our credibility that we people who really are ready for export," she says.
Billed as New Zealand's biggest fashion trade show, the event's 2005 incarnation is also expected to see more Australian buyers, media and friends of designers cross the Tasman in anticipation of the event than ever before.
While registrations had yet to be confirmed at the time of press, the strong interest shown in a preview breakfast, hosted by Stewart and staged at Sydney's new Hilton Hotel in August, is expected to help drive attendance numbers well over the 150 seats claimed by Australian buyers and media last year.
Stewart says that as New Zealand's key market for apparel exports, it is imperative the event continues to be supported by visitors from this side of the Tasman.
Australia, she says, "is and always will be" the country's number one market. Figures supplied by ANZFW appear to back that belief up.
While there is a clear reluctance by both buyers and designers to disclose the value of sales from previous shows, ANZFW organisers say New Zealand's total apparel exports for the year to June 2004 were $NZ302 million, an increase of $21 million (7.5 per cent) over the previous year. As the New Zealand fashion industry's biggest supporter, Australia was directly responsible for buying 74 per cent of the country's total apparel exports buying clothing, footwear and accessories worth more than $NZ224 million in the 12 months to June 2004.
A not insignificant number when compared to New Zealand's other key export markets including the US (which bought 6.7 per cent of its total apparel exports), the UK (6 per cent), Hong Kong (3.4 per cent) and Japan (1.8 per cent).
But while those figures appear impressive, so too does the economic impact of the event on the New Zealand economy.
Research conducted into the event found the 2003 showing to be worth an estimated $23.2 million to the New Zealand economy in terms of total output generated, and an estimated $19.2 million to the Auckland economy. Designers' expected incremental foreign exchange earnings resulting from the event were thought to be worth more than $9.5 million.
New faces, new places
Having evolved considerably in recent times, the focus on this year's event will be on new designers and fresh names who are "ready for the market but have not shown before", says Stewart.
"We've received the way the week works to give greater profile to emerging talent and have created several new forums for new names. This is part of the evolution of the event and in direct response to requests from international buyers and media."
One of the most noticeable changes is a reworking of the New Generation Category, sponsored by womenswear label Verge, to encompass designers who have some experience under their belt rather than those just starting out.
The category, which will now be known as the Verge Breakthrough Designers Group, features six up-and-coming designers including Widdess, Kim Decke, Michael Pattison, Lonely Hearts Club, Rayma and Queen B.
Under its previous formation, the category helped propel labels such as Helen Talbot, Sidewalk, Nadine Freudlich, Pearl and underwear label james&august to national, and in some cases, international success.
Stewart says the 2005 event will also feature a new contemporary salon category for designers who want the scope to show to show as individuals with their own distinct "look" but with a smaller collection than the main designer shows of established labels.
In addition, a number of designers have also chosen to use on-site showrooms to display their range, rather than preparing a catwalk show.
Stewart says there were noticeably more designers wanting to stage individual shows this year than for previous events.
"Showing individually is a natural progression from showing as a group. I think the fact so many designers are choosing to show as individuals is a sign of growing confidence and maturity and creates plenty of highlights for our schedule."
Other changes to the 2005 event include a reworking of some categories, improvements to the show's Viaduct Harbour Marine Village venue and the introduction of additional "chill out areas".
Huge public interest in the event has also led organisers to look at ways to allow greater public involvement. This will be addressed through five "Best of" shows, which will be open to the public and on-site. Highlight shows will include both fashion week garments and in-season garments that consumers can buy in-store in October.
Stewart says onsite showrooms will also make it easier for designers to showcase their ranges to buyers at the event, rather than having to go offsite.
"Our buyers around the world have made it clear that while they want to see quality and consistency from all our designers, they want to see fresh, new talent too and Fashion Week is the only place to showcase that for them."
However, that is not to say industry stalwarts will be forgotten with popular international labels Karen Walker, Kate Sylvester, Trelise Cooper, Zambesi, Workshop and Nom*D among those showing at the event.
With the Paris trade fair, Tranoi, taking place just a week before the New Zealand event, noticeable absentees include World and Sabatini White.
The event's traditional formal dinner party on opening night has also been discarded in favour of a "big party", says Stewart.
"It's a good chance for everyone to relax together in an informal way before the week begins without the commitment of a big night out. We are having our Catwalk Club luncheon with a guest speaker later in the week to allow those who like to host people formally to get around the table with their guests."
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Rookies get set to make mark
For the first time in ANZFW history, work designed by Auckland University of Technology (AUT) students will be included in the show's official schedule.
As the only fashion design school in the country invited to participate in the event, about 30 students from the school will be selected to show three designs each from their specialist area of study - apparel, knitwear or costume.
It is the third show selected students in their final year have had at fashion week, but the first time the show, branded as the Rookie show, has been incorporated into the official fashion week schedule.
Having enjoyed a unique relationship with ANZFW, first and second year students from the school will also act as ushers and dressers for the duration of the ANZFW.
AUT communications advisor Melanie Cooper says aside from helping to lift the profile of the tertiary provider, the move also allows the students to gain invaluable experience and exposure.
"The Rookie show is professionally organised and executed, just like all the other shows at ANZFW. The only difference being that, due to the number of designers and garments exhibited, the show is slightly longer in duration. Last year's show was a full house, culminating in several students being approached by national and international brands and buyers."
Cooper argues the quality of the work being produced by the students bodes well for the future of New Zealand fashion, claiming the talent of the students was well illustrated by the fact all of the school's 2004 Rookie designers found jobs in the industry within six months.
"If talent was the only deciding factor, we could look forward to unparalleled success. However despite positive growth in the New Zealand fashion industry, we are still a relatively small industry. To really thrive the local industry needs to commit itself to attracting a larger percentage of the global fashion market - then AUT graduates will really be able to make their mark."
The heat is on
Designers showing at Air New Zealand Fashion Week this year are competing for more than just the attention of national and international buyers - they will also be vying for a hand out worth thousands of dollars.
Introduced by naming right sponsors Air New Zealand last year, the Fashion Week Export Awards provide two designers the chance to win a travel, accommodation and government support package worth more than $55,000.
Brought about to help New Zealand fashion designers boost their export business and international profile, the awards are broken down into two categories: the export growth award (open to designers who export beyond Australia or who have exported for more than five years) and the export development award (open to labels who export only to Australia or who have exported for less than five years).
Last year's winners included knitwear label Insidious Fix and veteran Karen Walker who offered half her award to up-and-coming designer Adrian Hailwood so he could join her at London Fashion Week to "learn the ropes".
Judges for this year's awards include: Icebreaker CEO Jeremy Moon, ANZFW managing director Pieter Stewart, New Zealand Trade & Enterprise creative industries sector manager Judith Thompson and Air New Zealand marketing general manager Norm Thompson.