Leather is in constant evolution, with unique innovations in texture, finish and style a prime passion for fashion designers. Melinda Oliver discovers how the latest international looks are translated in the Australian retail market.
International designers Rick Owens and Rad Hourani are leading the current charge with sophisticated leather apparel, says director of Melbourne leather retailer Bisonte, Eric Wolfe. “For the first time in a while leather is looking exciting again,” he says.
Wolfe particularly admires Hourani’s “androgynous, non-seasonal, unstructured look”, which is indicative of how leather has transgressed from the practical to directional. Rick Owens also offers edgy leather looks, with asymmetrical-cut biker jackets, rouched elbows and blistered or metallic finishes in muted shades.
Wolfe and his team are also determined to push the boundaries with the age-old material. A key aim is to make the surface appearance of leather interesting and one-of-a-kind. A technique Wolfe calls “grundging” is used in Bisonte’s current offer, which results in what he describes as a “random pleating look”.
“We wet the leather, tie it in a bundle and then it dries into the moulding. It is a half-lines, half-crumples effect,” he says. Bisonte produces a mix of leather clothing such as jackets, dresses and skirts. Wolfe says a key style development is using super-soft calf leather for jackets with silhouettes cut close to the body.
“We make a biker jacket quite fitted in very soft gloving leather that gives in to the body when worn,” he says.
Sydney leather company Vinetti is also refining silhouettes in its collections. Director Yuda Shmueli agrees body-hugging biker and bomber jacket styles are currently in vogue. He says this suits warmer climates, with people wearing leather straight on the skin rather than over layers of knits.
He says cropped jackets with short sleeves, single-breasted trenches and slimline leather trousers mixed with stretch fabric are also important. The label is working with interesting trims such as zips, epaulets, studs and frill details, while finishes include washed-out, sprayed and scratched effects.
“Cream leather is now very popular. We introduced it five years ago and it’s a repeat of the 80s but more updated. We do lots of earth tones, tans, browns and black.”
The lure of leather apparel has also attracted footwear and accessory designer Sam Wagner of label Sambag. Wagner has ventured beyond her usual offer of leather shoes and bags to introduce slim fit black leather leggings for winter 2010.
To ensure comfort, the leggings consist of leather binded onto a stretchy fabric background. Wagner says while she regularly uses interesting leathers in her collection, she had to search for a manufacturer in China who could perfect this technique.
Managing director of Hunt Leather and domestic Longchamp stores Sophie Hunt says a key leather trend is its increased use by international designer labels for jewellery.
She says Italian bag label Il Bisonte’s plaited leather cuff has proven a popular way for consumers to buy into the upmarket brand. Similarly, French bag and accessory labelLongchamp has created leather mixed with silver jewellery pieces such as rings, cuffs and bracelets.
For bags, wallets and travel goods, Hunt says colour is evolving with increasingly striking styles offered year after year.
“There are lots of textures – painted, printed, pythony,” she says. “For Longchamp’s new Kate Moss collection a leather called shagreen (an emerald green leather) has been used.”
Imported leather is prime for the Sydney-based retailer and Hunt says the leather quality from Italy and France is still hard to beat.
“We are seeing beautiful leather from Spain, which is a little less bound than the French and Italian leather by traditions.”
Leather does come at a cost, with Hunt explaining it’s very subject to price fluctuations, particularly when oil prices rise. However she says this does little to deter customers from spending on a unique piece in line with international seasons.
“It used to be that mums would buy daughter’s one handbag, with three compartments in black, beige or navy, etc. Now we are seeing sharp young women knowledgeable about beautiful leather.”